Blue Tongued Skink Lovers!

[blacktits]

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Blue Tongued Skink


CARESHEET
Considering a Blue Tongue for a Pet
Let's start off by saying if you're considering a reptile as a pet, the blue tongue skink is a terrific choice. I've heard many people say, and I agree, that blue tongues are among the most intelligent species of lizard out there. For example, they can recognize sounds, recognize people, and we've actually almost completely house broken our male Irian Jaya. He never defecates in his terrarium ever. We take him outside for about 5 minutes before we take him in the car or let him on the carpet, and he goes every time. Part of this goes to getting him on a feeding schedule we've developed, and it's been highly effective. They're also large and smart enough to interact with, yet require very little maintenance. They live longer than most lizards, usually outliving even dogs and cats. Their average life span is about 20 years with reports of them living up to 30 years in captivity. They're fun to interact with, fun to hold, fun to take places, and if you take them in public, people act as though it's the most amazing thing they've ever seen. One likely reason you're searching for a lizard is for a pet for your children. You hit the jackpot in terms of reptiles. Blue tongues are great for kids and can be handled and played with...the kids of course should be supervised, and taught proper handling techniques, because these are still delicate creatures, and like any animal need to be handled with care. Another great reason is that they're slow. The kids can keep up with them. Bearded dragons are quick! You can let your blue tongue roam around, and he won't go anywhere fast (unless he's seriously spooked or just a baby). And lastly, blue tongues have no fur or feathers so if you're kid(s) have allergies, you won't have a thing to worry about. They are also diurnal so if you keep your animal in a bedroom, nobody will lose any sleep!

When considering a blue tongued skink as a pet, it's important to be aware of a few things. First of all, we DO NOT advise purchasing wild caught animals. Beside the fact that it's possibly illegal, they're often full of mites and internal parasites, and by NO MEANS ready to be a favorable pet. If you obtain a wild caught animal, it's important to get it "de-wormed" and checked out right away. Most (not all) Indonesian blue tongue skinks you see in a pet store are wild caught imports. They are often very unfriendly because they're WILD, and not used to human contact making them undesirable and unhappy. There are plenty of blue tongues for sale that are born captive, and ready to be great pets. If you see a Northern in a pet shop (which is unlikely), it is most assuredly a CaptiveBred as exporting from Australia is highly illegal. It is NOT illegal to export reptiles from Indonesia, and that's why almost all pet shop blue tongues are Indonesians. What you want to get instead, is a CB (captive bred) animal. Captive Bred of course means born in captivity. Quality captive bred blue tongues can be found on internet classifieds, your local newspapers, or if you're lucky, in pet shops. I've been to a lot of pet stores, and rarely have I seen blue tongue skinks (I'm referring to the U.S only, and disincluding any store that would specialize in them of course). The reason for this rarity is simple: It's just not cost efficient enough to breed them. Reptile hobbyists simply cannot produce enough offspring each year to make it worth their while. Take bearded dragons for example. They're an immensly popular lizard pet, VERY easy to reproduce, and very easy to sell quickly. Bearded dragons have about 3 clutches of eggs PER YEAR with about 15 or more offspring PER CLUTCH. That's a lot of babies in a single year to sell! Sell each baby at $30 each to a pet store, and that's a pretty nice chunk of change. This is why you see copious amounts of beardies in pet stores. Now take blue tongued skinks. Being viviparous, they give birth to live young so there are no eggs. That particularly doesn't matter, but they only give birth ONCE per year. And that's only if you're lucky, because sometimes it can even be every other year. Babies can number anywhere from 5 to 15, and up to 25 on rare occasions and only with certain species. So, you see...breeding blue tongue skinks is very uncommon (compared to bearded dragons for example), and seeing them in stores is even more uncommon. This is also one of the reasons that makes them so special though, and also why you see so many wild caughts for sale. It's a lot easier for an importer/exporter to snatch an animal out of the wild and sell it for a quick buck, rather than finding pairs to breed and waiting years on end for their offspring.

Buying
Note that this information is typical, but of course not exclusive to all pet stores and/or shows.

As we now know, pet stores usually do not carry blue tongues on a regular basis; especially compared to other popular lizards. And unfortunately, the few times you do see one, it is a wild caught animal in poor health. Pet stores will usually tell you what you want to here, and telling you that the blue tongue is captive bred (when they really have no idea) is usually not above them. If an employee (usually an unexperienced teen) has a chance of selling you an animal, and getting their cut of the sale, they'll do it. Many employees won't even know what wild caught vs. captive bred is all about. So to put it plainly, DO NOT RELY ON PET STORE ADVICE. Recognizing wild caught animals can be difficult because very often stores get in young animals that never got the chance to be exposed to harsh natural conditions. Adult wild caught animals can look rough. Scars, missing/broken toes, corroding lips, parasites, you name it. If they look beat up, they're most assuredly a wild caught. It's not a 100% indication however, as you can never know for sure if the guy across the street didn't drop off a recently bred female that he didn't have luck with (breeding consists of biting, and the females can sometimes sustain permanent scarring), but it's very unlikely. Afterall, who would sell a female that was possibly gravid (pregnant). Animals can also be in poor shape if the pet store keeps them in poor conditions. Blue tongues kept together (which is a risky and ignorant thing to do, but done all too often at pet stores) will often fight resulting in massive scars, bitten off feet, and severed tails. Here is an example of what a wild caught or neglected animal might look like upon careful inspection.
So, just remember to carefully look over the animal's condition, and ask as many questions as possible. Be frank, and be persistent. Don't let the pet store get the best of you. They will likely do whatever it takes to sell the animal to you. Remember, pet store employees are not experts on BTS. They are hired hands to sell animals for the company and collect a paycheck. A truly knowledgeable staff is rare. And knowledge of BTS is even more rare because the animals are so rarely sold. Be sure to do your research. If you have to ask THEM questions, you're not ready to own your reptile. Thoroughly learn everything you can, and have all your supplies up and running before purchasing your animal. When you've learned everything you can by reading and talking to experienced keepers (not teenagers working at the pet store), and YOU begin noticing that they are giving you wrong advice, and you start getting that angry bad feeling in the pit of your stomach, you are ready! Here are some tips to avoid fraud and misunderstandings. Be sure to ask each and every one of these questions below. If a seller cannot or does not answer clearly and in a timely manner, I would not make the purchase. Again, these types of sellers will not be there to help you when you need it. These questions can be used for both pet store and online purchases.
• Wild caught? (Is the animal wild caught or captive bred? Obviously avoid wild caught animals)
• Date born? (You'll be amazed how few sellers know this—if they don't know, the animal is likely wild caught as it's obviously impossible to determine the date of birth of an animal taken from the wild—if it's an older animal that has been changed hands over the years, then the date of birth would likely be lost—it's incredible how so few people keep track of this simple stat, as it's important for knowing the exact age of the animal! Remember, any animal under a year old could be considered a baby. Babies can appear nearly FULL GROWN in one year depending on how much they're fed, so if you buy a "baby" and expect a little 6 inch long lizard, don't be too surprised. That's why it's imperative to see EXACT pictures of the animal you are buying, and preferably pictures of the animal juxtaposed with a ruler if you're being told or expecting a certain size)
• Current diet? (What is he currently being fed? Always be sure a seller or pet store is providing a healthy diet before you buy—you don't want to end up with a neglected, sick, or MBD stricken animal—be sure a diet of freshly (and finely) chopped collard greens, fruits, and everything else you will read about further on down is being fed—don't let them tell you that their diet is "crickets")
• Current housing sizes and substrate? (Small tanks are a good sign that the seller has too many animals. The more the animals, the less care each individual one receives. Is the animal being housed on slipshod substrates? Read about them later on)
• Pictures of exact animal? (Be sure you know exactly what you're getting, and request EXACT pictures of the animal you are considering—an exorbitant amount of sellers just post a random picture of a BTS in an ad that's supposed to represent everything they have, so who knows what you'll actually get if you buy from them)
• Mites (Ask the seller to check carefully as they can be very difficult to see—ask about lifted scales, white specks, and tiny black dots walking around on the animal—tell them to look very closely and carefully as they're difficult to see if you don't have a trained eye)
• Exact species? (Be sure they actually know what they're selling—many sellers and pet stores don't even know that there are different BTS species—you will often hear "Eastern for sale" when it is actually an Irian Jaya. This is another reason why requesting EXACT pictures is important)
• Being housed separately? (BTS should be housed separately, especially if you are purchasing an adult. Expect cuts, missing toes, and severed tails from animals that have been housed together)
• Where skink originally came from? (Over half of all sellers will claim to have no idea where their skink came from. Don't be fooled. Animals don't mysteriously show up on people's doorsteps)
• Guarantees and warranties? (What are the company's or indvidual's health guarantees and warranties? Guaranteed live arrival? If so, one day? One week? Will they offer customer service after you get the animal? Are you free to call them on the phone if you have a question? Remember, people who are hard to get a hold of, or don't answer questions thoroughly will NOT be there when you need help)

Social Interaction and Handling
As I mentioned above, blue tongued skinks make great reptile pets for kids because they are so easily handleable. They have smooth, shiny scales and hard bodies (unlike bearded dragons, iguanas, uyromastyx, etc), and that to me makes them a bit easier to hold. They're also fairly stiff in the sense that when you hold them, it doesn't feel like you're squishing them. Whenever I handle say a Uyromastyx, their body and skin is so delicate that I always feel like I'm crushing them. Blue tongues have hard, tough bodies and can handle the firm grip of a child.

Interaction
Blue tongues have tiny little legs and feet, so they don't go anywhere fast (although they are capable of surprising speeds when in pursuit of live prey), and they have very personable, almost human eyes. When you approach them, you can actually see them looking at you. You cannot make eye contact with any snake or gecko. You can make actual eye contact with a blue tongued skink, and that to me can develop a bond between a skink and its owner. I honestly believe that a blue tongued skink can develop a certain recognition for their owners. All in all, the best way to get to know your skink is to hold it often, let it wander around outside its cage, hand-feed it, lay it on your chest and let it watch T.V with you...anything you want! Have fun! The keyword is interaction. If you do this, you will soon have a very lazy, tame, and friendly skink. They generally are pretty lazy, so they really do just sort of hang out—more so as adults. If you're looking to race your skinks, then this is probably not the lizard for you. They are however, VERY curious. If they're in the right mood, they love to explore. Set up some newspapers, blankets, empty cereal boxes, etc. They will search in and out, and in every nook and cranny with their big blue tongue going ever faster. It's a blast too watch! After a while, you'll just find him asleep.

One question we get a lot is: "Do BTS like to be handled"? There is a large range of views on this subject. Some keepers believe that handling should be kept to a minimum as reptiles only "tolerate" handling rather than actually enjoying or benefitting from it—at the same time however, most still believe that the skink will enjoy an occasional romp outdoors in the sun. Remember that blue tongued skinks are not domesticated like a dog or cat. They are wild animals, BUT if a reptile does benefit from being out and about, I'm not sure that that differs from anything else whether it be walking in the grass, walking on your lap, walking on the floor, or doing anything else outside its regular cage. I know they don't, in a sense, "want" certain things, so when I place my hand in the baby's cage and they immediately run to it and crawl up, do they *want* to be held, or do they *want* to explore elsewhere besides in their cage? I think that they just live their life and take things as it comes, and a captive bred bluey's curiosity often gets the best of them (sudden captivity would essentially be a culture shock for a wild caught pet). When they don't feel threatened, and are used to a life in captivity, I think they are curious about everything; the sky, the grass, different foods, various sounds, and yes, you and me as well. That curiosity is satisfied which is evident in their often obvious change in behavior when interacted with, and whether that be enjoying the sun outdoors, or being petted on the head, it's stimulation and interaction that is beneficial in my book.

For most, handling is a big part of enjoying your BTS. I know that's a broad statement and not true for everyone, but for the most part, handling and interaction can be one of the best aspects of owning these creatures.

Can people really bond with BTS?
Absolutely! Something that many people don't realize (and likely never will) is that lizards are not the creepy crawly scary animals that society has made them out to be. If you are reading this, you likely know exactly what I'm talking about. The redundant yet obligatory reactions of disgust and even pure terror. This is commonplace, and a true shame. It's difficult to explain to someone who is hard in their ways, but each one of these animals has its own unique personality and own funny characteristics. They even show intelligence such as recognition of their owner, recognition for sound (shaking bags, their name being said, opening of the tank lid) memory of locations, recognition of gestures such as lowering a bowl into the cage, recognition of color (foods, etc) and objects, likes and dislikes of food, and an incredible inquisitive nature and curiosity of their surroundings. Many will never experience this or understand it because they simply won't give reptiles a chance. They see them as "icky slimy creatures" and very few people could even tell you exactly why they don't like them. Every person I know who was nervous around these animals at first immediately warmed up to them once seeing the personality in their eyes, their curious nature, and calm disposition. The usual reponse: "Wow, I had no idea". Once some of these people form bonds of their own with the BTS, it completely changes their entire perspective on reptiles. Of course, there are always those adverse individuals who will shriek and act as if they're about to die. I'm not sure there's much hope for them!

Personality
Every blue tongue literally has his own individual personality, and you will quickly learn his favorite food preferences, his likes and dislikes, etc. Blue tongues are also fast learners, and adapt quickly to their environment. There are lots of stories out there about blue tongues doing funny/amazing things, but many people attribute it to anthropomorphization (giving human characteristics to an animal), however I've seen some remarkable stories that are true. Many swear that their lizards will react differently to sounds, certain words, and so on. Personally, one of my skinks does react to different sounds. Check out the video section for videos demonstrating voice recognition, and the shaking of a bag. My big male Irian Jaya has a funny characteristic—we let him bask out in the grass during the hot summers. We put him pretty far out and leave our patio screen door open about two inches while we relax in lawn chairs. He lays there and basks usually motionless for about 20 minutes, then starts exploring. When he's done (and this is literally every day we take him outside) he climbs up the patio, heads for the door, and goes straight inside! If the door is closed, he paces back and forth until let in. If we leave the screen open half an inch—he will stick his nose in and wedge the sliding screen open. Now, telling anyone that my skink comes in the house everyday on his own might sound far fetched. But, what can I say—he does it every single day. None of my other skinks do it, they wander off, and we have to retrieve them. It's really taught me to be more open minded, and to not jump on people immediately saying: "No way". More experienced reptile owners attribute most of these personalities to coincidences and an active imagination. I'm sure not all stories are true, but I'm sure many are. You'll hear a lot of them if you join a reptile forum/community!

All in all, there's nothing wrong with a fancy imagination in my opinion—stories are fun to read and quite humorous—even if they are a little far fetched. I'd much rather owners take notice and be excited enough about their reptile to even share a story—no matter how ridiculous it may sound. It shows that the person really cares, and is excited about what they are doing which usually results in good care. "Lizard leashes" are looked down upon by some, but used as a tool by others. If you can actually get one to work (which is hard because they streamline their legs with their bodies, and it's like trying to put a snake on a leash) then it can be used to keep your skink from wandering off. Tie one end to the leg of your lawn chair, a tree or fence post and try your luck. Don't get too comfortable lying in the sun with him however because he'll likely wiggle his way out in no time.

Can BTS make noise?
Aside from quiet grunting and/or funny little squeeks, BTS are completely silent. If your BTS begins struggling while you have a firm grip, once in a while he'll let out little squeeks or grunts almost like a person would while trying to reach something far away. My male Merauke (Sunny) grunts pretty loudly while being held, but I haven't heard it from any of my others. A lot of times the grunts almost sound like a whimper.

Getting Peed On
If a bluey starts to go to the bathroom on you—which usually results from an excessively strong grip or a body that is not fully supported—DO NOT PANIC! Many people get very startled, and throw the animal off their lap in a panic. A blue tongue's urine is just water, and has no scent or color. Excrement however, is obviously more odorous, but it's nothing that will stain or hurt you. Remember, it is possible to get your bluey on a feeding schedule, which essentially gets them on a "waste cycle". They normally defecate once per day (unless they have loose stool), and it's probably not a good idea to let them wander around outside their cage until they've done their business. A word of advice: Blue tongues tend to defecate/urinate once they become active. They often hide or sleep in their cages, so once you take them out, excreting their bodily fluids is often the first thing that happens. Just be sure to take them out in the grass for a few minutes, and they usually go right away. If you see waste in their cage upon returning home, you're good to go! Keep in mind that if your BTS has the runs, he could go a number of times during the day, and at any time.

Proper Handling Techniques
There are many ways to hold a blue tongue skink, but the most important thing to remember is to keep the animal's ENTIRE body supported. Especially their hindquarters. Proper handling is also important to teach your children, otherwise when held, you will have a very finicky and panicked blue tongued skink. If their backside is not supported, they will fling their tails around wildly because they don't feel secure and feel as though they're going to fall. If you've ever heard of blue tongues peeing on you, this is the time they'll do it. However, when handled in a correct and responsible manner, you will have no problems. The following three pictures show the best methods for handling. The first is probably our favorite. Simply lay your blue tongue across your underarm, just so his nose touches your bicep, then support his backside with your palm. This creates complete security and support for his entire body. You can use your right or left arm, whichever you are most comfortable with. The second pic is basically the same idea except his head and tail are switched. The third picture shows a method that is easy for moving your blue tongue short distances. Simply lift him from behind, and prop him up on your free hand.
Always remember that these are not little geckos or anoles, so it's important that you do not drop your animal. You could likely get away with an accidental drop with a tiny lizard or even a long snake, but a BTS would fall like a brick. I would start children off by holding them in their laps, and petting them on the ground. Also, never attempt to hold your BTS upside down. He will struggle to his maximum strength and bones can pop out of place and even break.

Hand washing
As a good rule of thumb, it's smart to wash your hands before and after handling your skink or any reptile (hand sanitizer works well in a pinch) both to protect your animal from foreign bacteria, and also yourself. Zoonosis is extremely rare however, but hand washing is still recommended. We discuss salmonella later on.

[blacktits]

They cannot hold the proper heat because they are completely open air, and are generally meant for chameleons. You would literally have to keep your room in the 80 degree range just to satisfy the proper cool end gradient, and your heat lamp would burn straight through the mesh (unless you had it on the inside, but then your animal has no protection against a shattering bulb). Hint: kitchen tile works great as a basking rock; particularly dark colored tile that would absorb heat. You can cut or break it into any shape, and they only cost a couple of bucks. You can even get really neat naturalistic rock tile. Avoid tile with a glossy finish. Slate is also excellent. Remember, your animal needs a FLAT and SMOOTH rock that is large enough for his entire body, and it should be placed directly below your heat lamp. Also don't forget that a lush, well-thought out terrarium design makes all the difference in both your enjoyment, and your animal's enjoyment.
Proper Cage Dimensions
Inch/centimeter conversion tables can be found in the Cobalt Vault

Here is the arithmetic for determining the gallon capacity of your tank: There are 231 cubic inches to a gallon, so multiply the length, width, and height of your terrarium in inches, then divide by 231 = number of gallons.

The crucial fact to remember when choosing a terrarium is that FLOOR space is the most important aspect, not height. Blue tongues are not climbers, but burrowers thusly they need plenty of ground room to maneuver. Also, if your cage is too high, there will be too much distance between your basking rock and heat lamp, which could result in insufficient temperatures. Here are two examples. The first picture is a standard 50 gallon aquarium that is TWO feet high. It looks great at a first glance, but the floor space is very minimal, and the majority of its size consists of height (wasted space the BTS will never use). The 2nd picture shows a tighter more compact tank, but it also is a bit tall. Same scenario as the first picture, only even less floor space. As a good rule of thumb, 'gallons' are not a good measurement to use when deciding on a tank. If someone is telling you about a fifty or sixty gallon tank they have for sale, it is most likely a tall fish aquarium. There are a lot more fish aquariums out there compared to reptile terrariums. Once again, floor space is the key, not height, and the more floor space the better. You could never have an enclosure that was too big. Also remember that we are not ruling out tall tanks—as long as you can keep your temperatures correct, there are no worries.
Tupperware Enclosures
Tupperware bins are terrific for temporary use, but not as a permanent home. It's also been my experience that keeping your blue tongue in these bins will make them very irritable. They can't see out, and even if it's clear, you still can't see through the plastic. So, basically they just sit their all day with nothing to look at, and I honestly think it's a bit claustrophobic for them. Many breeders use them, so they wouldn't care what personality their skink had, but for pets, what's the point? They're cheap? C'mon. If you have a great pet like a blue tongued skink, give them a home you can be proud of and really enjoy! They're such an inquisitive and curious animal, and I just don't think tupperware bins are right for them. It also sort of makes them look like test subjects. They're great however for transporting, or even a place to sit your animals while you clean their cages. Rubbermaid and Sterilite are both good brands.

Cleaning Cages
Spot cleaning is fine. When you clean daily, be sure to pick up the entire area of substrate along with the actual fecal matter. We just use simple toilet paper to spot clean. Generally, your terrarium should be completely cleaned out every month or so depending on how dirty it is, what type of substrate you have, etc. One good clean-up a month is a good guideline to follow. Using a shop-vac to clean out old substrate makes the job a cinch! After the old substrate is out, simply wipe everything down with an anti-bacterial soap and HOT water, rinse, then disinfect with a bleach/water solution. Just be sure the tank is completely free of fumes and strong bleach scent before placing the animal back. Soak the basking rock in boiling water as well, and scrub it with a brush (your animal has likely defecated on it once or twice, and the heat lamp often hardens it onto the rock). You can even run your basking rock through the dishwasher if it's slate or tile (do not put mudstone into a dishwasher as it will disintegrate). One other funny note, sometimes when a blue tongue is placed into a freshly cleaned or rearranged cage, he will flatten himself out, and wave his tail around frantically. It might surprise you, but there's nothing to worry about. Some believe it's a sign of dominance—showing he owns the place and/or marking his territory—or simply reacting to his fresh surroundings. They sometimes do this when placed outside as well. Here is some additional information written by Kelly Mckinney:

Disinfecting should be part of your maintenance routine. Of course we all do daily spot cleaning, but when you do a major cleaning you first clean (hot soapy water) and then you should disinfect. I love the Nolvasan/Virosan because there are no worries as with bleach/water. It is safe on reptiles, but not amphibians, etc. Read up on this link and it will explain it all for you. Cleaning, Disinfecting and Sterilizing (Reptiles)
I keep a mixed bottle of the Nolvasan/Virosan on hand to aid in daily spot cleaning and daily cleaning of water and food dishes. Once a week I do a full cleaning and disinfecting (soaking in the solution as opposed to the daily use of the solution in the spray bottle) of the dishes and any deco that came into contact with feces/urates. Then like about every 3 months I do a complete cage breakdown in which I clean and disinfect everything. For my snakes at this 3 month mark I also do a complete substrate change if they are on a loose substrate. For blueys I change substrate completely after each shed (about every 4-6 weeks) and of course spot clean daily.

Purchase Nolvasan/Virosan: http://www.mgreptiles.com/WOW.html

Cohabitation
I strongly believe it is very important to keep your skinks in separate terrariums. Some people do keep pairs together year around, but only those who are very experienced should do so. If you are new to blue tongues, this is NOT something you should do. I've had many people come to me insisting: "But my blue tongue skinks love each other!" They may look very friendly together, and you could possibly house them together successfully for months, but all it takes is one brief moment of irritability, and one could lash out at the other completely biting off the tail, severing an entire foot or even killing the animal. Remember that BTS live their lives in solitude in the wild. I feel I should stress this—it is NOT a rare thing for blue tongues to act violently toward one another. And that's just taking into account the possibility of injury—not to mention stress, disease transmission, difficulty of monitoring feces, competition for hides/heat, etc. (K. McKinney, 2005). If you have breeding pairs in a huge outdoor enclosure, that's one thing, but keeping them together in an indoor terrarium is extremely dangerous. Don't be fooled by pet stores housing blue tongues together advertising them as "breeding pairs". This only shows their ignorance. Also, do not compare BTS to other reptiles—their temperaments and personalities are different and you shouldn't assume they will be compatible just because another species of reptile can be housed together. There are three main reasons why one would consider housing BTS together indoors.

¹) The individual is not educated on the subject—no matter how long he or she has actually owned them. Length of time owning an animal does not necessarily show how experienced someone is. If an individual just buys a lizard, feeds it every day, and basically just keeps it in a terrarium while he plays with his kids and goes on vacation—he's not necessarily gaining any experience. So, for example someone saying: "I've got experience. I've housed my blueys together for a year with no problems". OR "I have two years experience with BTS and have never used heat lamps. They seem fine, and I think I know what I'm doing". It doesn't work like that. We occasionally get these types of emails or posts, and it goes to show that just because someone has owned blue tongues for even YEARS, it does not mean that they know what they're doing. Sometimes if you get bad advice from day one—from pet stores in most cases—then that's the advice the person sticks with, and he doesn't seek advice elsewhere. Genuine interest, eager attention, intense observation, regular interaction, and a true passion is what will gain you experience. Simply owning a pet that is probably for your children will not.
²) Irresponsible breeders. More space = more animals = more money. Simple as that.
³) Additional housing costs mucho dinero. It's understandable that reptile housing is pricey. Cramming blue tongues into small cages for the simple excuse: "I can't afford more housing" is ridiculous. Not to mention that the individual is endangering his or her own investment if all they care about is the money.

We have many members on our forum who have housed BTS together in the past—they no longer do because many learned the hard way, and they will be more than willing to share their experiences in order to save you the same experience. The following pictures display two BTS that lived together peacefully for three months. The owner came home and found that the animals had been fighting, seriously and permanently damaging a full one-third of all the toes on one of the animals. These pictures are also good examples of what can happen if leftover toe shed is not attended to. Click to enlarge.
Lighting/Heating/Temperature
Blue tongued skinks require a wide ranged temperature gradient consisting of a hot side, a cool side, and a middle range in between. Regular daytime temperatures on the cool end can be anywhere from the low 70's to the low 80 degree range, and the basking end consistent at 95º to 100º. Some would say as high as 110º on the basking end, but I think that's too high. You want to maintain a little bit of 'wiggle room'. If the sun shines through a window, or your in-laws turn the heat up, it could definitely fluctuate the temperature in a room. 100º is ideal. If your temps are 110º+, the slightest rise in heat could raise the temperature dangerously high. Proper temperatures can be achieved and regulated with the use of a heat lamp. They usually cost $10-15 at your local pet shops (or cheaper at Home Depot), and I would highly suggest purchasing a size no smaller than a 10 inch diameter. This widens your heat range, and prevents the lamp from tipping. Any smaller than 10 inches, and the lamps can tip very easily (if you're heat lamp is clamped, you don't need to worry about this). You will also need a bright incandescent bulb for the lamp. They will probably be for sale right next to the heat lamps, and a 100 watt will probably be fine. If you have a taller enclosure, a 150 -200 watt bulb may be necessary to maintain your basking temperature. You may use virtually any sort of bulb as long as your temperatures are correct. Simply place your lamp on the top of your screen lid, turn it on, and you're ready! Leave it on for a few hours, and do a few test runs before putting in the animal. You want to be sure that it's not too hot, or too cold. If your animal is always on the cool end, or laying in its water dish, it's likely too hot. Watch those temps, and be prepared! Do not buy on an impulse. You want everything tested and ready BEFORE buying your animal. You don't want to bring your animal home, and then learn of mistakes or problems. Do what it takes to achieve the correct temperatures. Usually, a heat lamp is all you need to achieve your 100º basking area, but if not, you may need to supplement with a heat mat or a more powerful bulb. Hint: Buy your heat lamps (and bulbs such as spot/halogen/flood) at Home Depot, and save a ton of money! They're the exact same units in the pet store, except for the tripled price tag. Scroll down to the UV section for info on specific bulbs.

Important advice

Please exercise extreme caution if you have cats loose in your home. There are many cases of cats knocking over reptile heat lamps and causing fires.
Be very mindful of where your heat lamp is at all times. For example, when removing your BTS, be careful not to set your heat lamp down on the bed or carpet.
It is a very good idea to keep an extra bulb handy in case your main one burns out. You may be surprised how long it takes you to get another.
Night time temperatures should drop no lower than 60º (temperatures dropping below 60 will not hurt your BTS, but may induce a brumation [essentially a hibernation] state that typically results in long sleeps and a complete loss of appetite). Just turn your heat lamp off at night, and back on in the morning. We suggest a 12 hour cycle such as 9am-9pm, or 10-10, 11-11, etc. This is called the photoperiod. If you work late, it might be a good idea to set your timers from 12-12. This way, the lights come on at noon, and you will have until midnight to play with and handle your pet. Remember, if you have some insanely cold house...for example air conditioning in the summer, you might want to consider a small under-the-tank heater.

[blacktits]

You can also use a ceramic heat emitter. They put off plenty of heat, but no actual light. See picture below. Ceramic heat emitters are pretty expensive costing anywhere from 30 to 50 U.S dollars, but are very effective. Keep in mind however that you don't want 90 degree night time temperatures; keep the entire tank in the 60-70's at night. I believe that BTS benefit from a nighttime "cool down" period—the heat keeps their bodies active and their blood and organs pumping. A natural nightly cool down period rests their bodies and helps put them into a cool sleep. One thing that a lot of people don't realize is that BTS can take the cold—60's-70's during the night will not hurt them at all.
DO NOT use heat rocks. They can actually burn the belly of your skink. The reason we say no to heat rocks is that they're prone to malfunction, and it also puts an electrical hazard in your tank 24/7. Your animal will often be wet from soaking in his water...then imagine him running on top of the heat rock, or rubbing on the side of the hot and electrically powered rock device. Electricity and water are obviously not a good combination—I don't even understand how or why heat rocks were invented. You shouldn't have anything electrical in your terrarium; period. Some people still of course say they've used heat rocks successfully for years...blah, blah blah...but I will tell you this: It's an extreme danger, so why on earth risk it, when you don't even need it. And most people would have a change of heart of course once their animal was actually electrocuted and killed. Below is an under-the-tank heater or "heat mat", and a ceramic heat emitter.

Note: Heat mats are generally NOT needed and should only be used on hard surfaces and UNDER your tank (not inside). They can get insanely hot, and will very easily burn carpet. Also keep in mind that it IS possible that a heat mat could heat up the bottom of the glass to unsafe temperatures. Try it on low at first, and monitor it before leaving your BTS inside. Thermostats are recommended. DIGITAL TEMP GUNS are essential in these cases and we talk about them in the next section. Remember, never use any type of heat pad or heat rock inside your terraria. Human heating pads are acceptable when holding the bluey on your lap, the couch, etc.
Humidity
Some say to keep the substrate moist to maintain an even humidity level, and that is an absolute falsity. Be very cautious as if your terrarium is damp in any way, bacteria can grow FAST, and your skink could develop skin problems such as scale rot. Don't ever dump water into the tank, or just drench the substrate. Generally, a large water bowl will provide all the humidity they need, so don't even worry about using a mister. Humidity can range from 25-50%, but I feel 50 is a bit too high as just with the heat, I like to leave open a little wiggle room. If humidity were to fluctuate to a higher humidity, the terrarium may become too humid. We recommend anywhere between 25 & 40%. If it's too dry in your terrarium, your skink's scales will begin to look and feel very dry. This is your chance to raise the humidity before shedding becomes arduous. I would consider buying a large cigar humidifier. You can tape it directly on the inside of your terrarium, and they come in all different varieties and sizes. A cigar humidifier is basically a special sponge enclosed in a plastic housing. It is equipped with little holes (like a salt shaker) to let the moisture out into the air. Just pour water into the little holes, and the internal sponge soaks it up...then just stick it to the inside of your tank near the bottom on the COOL end. Any humidity being released on the hot end would evaporate much quicker. These humidifiers are of course meant to keep cigars from drying out, but really big one's (for large humidors) can be used for virtually anything. You can purchase one at a tobacco shop (smoke shop), and probably some greenhouses will sell similar items. Another idea would be to increase the size of your water bowl. Both of these methods are not too terribly expensive...otherwise you could just try purchasing an electric humidifier to be placed in the room, NOT inside the cage. (Note: Carefresh substrate is very absorbent, and therefore will absorb a lot of moisture in the air.)

One other note, digital hygrometers (same as digital thermometers) are much more accurate than anything else. I had an erroneous 'needle' style hygrometer that was about 20% off of my actual humidity. It caused a lot of confusion. You can purchase a handy hygrometer/thermometer combination unit for around $10-15 dollars at places like RadioShack & Home Depot. Again, don't fret about humidity. Just keep an eye on your gauge, and your big water bowl and hot heat lamp will keep everything in check. Hint: Are your lizard's belly scales crackly and rough? This is a good sign you need to bump up the humidity a bit.

UV Lighting (ultra violet)
This little rumor doesn't ever seem to go away, but it's been said that blue tongued skinks are one of the few reptiles that do not require UV lighting. It doesn't hurt however, and is still generally recommended. Like anything though, there are varying opinions about this. I'm not sure how the rumor actually got started that blue tongues don't need UV lighting, but I find it hard to believe that they are some magical reptile that is excluded from the benefits of UV. One reason I believe keeps this rumor alive is the fact that a lot of reptile breeders have not used UV for years and their BTS are still alive and healthy. I think this just goes back to the fact that BTS are incredibly hardy creatures. If you are unable to obtain UV lighting (all pet stores should carry the proper equipment), an ideal solution would be to obtain a UV Mercury Vapor bulb which emits great light intensity and supposed superior UVB/UVA output. One problem with the MV bulbs is that the actual globe is very large and will not fit in most standard lamps. They're also quite expensive, but do usually come with a year warranty. Taking your animals outside is also an excellent way for them to catch some UV rays. We highly recommend it.
UVA & UVB

UVA (ultraviolet-A): Long wavelengths of 320-400nm (nanometers = billionths of a meter). UVA is visible to the human eye, and supposedly induces instinctive behavior such as mating, eating, etc. Also said to be beneficial for psychological reasons, and the general or mental well-being of the animal.
UVB (ultraviolet-B): Short wavelengths of 290-320nm. Much more powerful, and invisible to the human eye. Allows for the formation of vitamin D3, which is important for calcium metabolism. Glass will also block virtually all UV rays, so keeping your terrarium by a window is useless. Even if the window is open, your terrarium is probably made of glass as well. One more thing to mention is 'full spectrum'. It's supposed to mean 'having BOTH UVA & UVB output', but products these days advertise basically whatever they want, and get away with it. NO incandescent bulbs can emit any UVB even if it says it does. Taking your animals outside is the best source for UV. There are varying opinions, but it's said that one hour of real sunlight is equal to about one week of UV bulb exposure.
Remember that reptile UV is an insane topic that every single expert seems to have their own opinion on. Some say that your bulb must be within 12 inches to be effective at all; others say six inches (beware as if it's too close and powerful, it can burn your skink's eyes!). Depending on the power of your bulb, that all can vary of course. It's another good reason to have a low cage because BTS are generally not climbers, and will not climb up a log to be near a UV light (they would climb to be near a hot lamp however). A beardie probably would as they die quickly without proper UV lighting. Just use a mercury vapor bulb, or a large tube (remember that tubes typically need to be replaced about every 6 months and need to be close to your animal) that isn't too far away, and you'll be fine. If you're really freaking out about it, you might want to purchase a solar meter; it will actually tell you exactly how much UV your BTS is getting! Purchase one from the second link below (site also contains a myriad of additional UV info). Also check out the first link; it shows you exactly how much UV different brands put out, then compares it to real sunlight at the end. All in all, sunlight is the most natural and efficient source, so take advantage of it when you can. Bulbs and tubes are only simulations. There are about a milion and one opinions and websites out there on this subject (way too much stuff to post here), so don't hesitate to do a little of your own research!
Substrate/Bedding
Another constant topic of argument is what bedding to use. Some common choices are carpet (not recommended), aspen shavings, carefresh, Lizard Litter, Bed-A-Beast, coconut fiber, Repti-Bark or any type of reptile substrate. We personally use aspen shavings, and we love it. It's light, it's cheap, and the animals can do some serious burrowing in it. Fecal clean-up is easy, and it's pretty absorbent too. The only negative aspect would have to be the dust, but if you get the filtered kind it's not so bad and settles quickly. Avoid the rabbit bedding type of aspen shavings. They're much thinner, and are basically just aspen 'splinters'. The thin pieces could easily lodge themselves up inside a blue tongue's nose when burrowing. Another idea (but less recommended) would be cypress mulch. I've always strayed away from it because it looks so damp and it is very thick and clumpy. Repti-Bark and Bed-A-Beast, or even artificial turf are a couple other options. Your two best bets would probably be either aspen shavings, or carefresh pet bedding. Aspen looks better visually, but carefresh is probably slightly more absorbent—which could be good or bad depending on how you look at it. It absorbs fecal matter and urine quite well, but also absorbs moisture in the air which can make your tank very dry. If you're wondering what exactly carefresh is, they advertise it's "reclaimed wood pulp waste". Whatever that means, it basically looks like wet clumps of paper that have been dried. Sort of like what you get in your drier if you had paper in your pockets. It's soft, it's light, it's absorbent, and best of all, very cheap and easy to replace. Aspen looks better, and is also equally good. Cheap, light, visually appealing, absorbent, and they can really dig. The choice is your's! Both have a fair bit of dust, but as mentioned before, the dust does settle. Here are a couple brands you're likely to come across...
Diet
Blue tongued skinks are omnivorous meaning they eat both plant matter and meat, and require a multifarious diet. We use our 50/40/10 system: 50% vegetables and greens, 40% meat, mice, and insects, and 10% fruits. A large portion of their diet should include fresh vegetables and greens such as kale, collard greens, mustard greens, beet greens, bokchoy, etc. You may use virtually any fruit such as figs, papaya, mango, grapes, banana, diced apple, strawberry, blackberries, raspberries, blueberries (it's fun because they have blue tongues), melons and kiwi. Meats can include cooked shredded/ground (lean) chicken, beef or turkey, different types of worms and insects, an occasional mouse, and a small amount of cat food. Do not feed raw meats. While it's true that blue tongues eat some carrion in the wild, our processed meat is a little different than the natural way of things—hormone injections, unsanitary slaughterhouses, you name it. It's definitely important to cook out any weird bacteria or contamination. Especially since cooking it is so easy. Download the below food charts to make your food selection 100% easier. Scrambled egg (when cooked on low) is a treat they will also relish, but should only be given if your blue tongue is not eating well. Cooking anything on high oxidizes the cholesterol, so keep that in mind. Baby tomatoes and berries by the way are a great food to give them by hand...and high quality low fat soft cat or dog food works well in small amounts for substance. I would personally recommend cat food over dog food. Cat food just seems more juicier, thick, and smells a bit better. The only brands I would recommend are all natural 100% meat brands. These can often be found at health food stores. Mix up some finely cut collard greens (food processor makes the job a snap) with a small amount of cat food, add a few raspberries on the top, and you have a perfect healthy meal! Be sure to wash/rinse all fruits and vegetables. Natural baby food can be used sparingly as a last result, or you can even make your own baby food! Just purée greens and fruits in a food chopper.

For food dishes, jar lids work well as do paper plates cut into fourths. Do not use a knife to chop up greens ON the container you are serving with—this can create sharp edges on the feeding dish. A food chopper is prime for cutting your greens. When you're finally ready to offer food, you may notice that not all blueys will eat right away. Some will devour the portion in seconds, others will take their time nibbling little bits here and there. Some will actually anticipate your lowering the dish into the cage, and will come running to eat. Others will not even seem to notice, and you may want to touch his nose into the food to give him a taste. It's perfectly alright to leave the food in the terrarium for a few hours. You might want to leave the food on the cool end however, otherwise the heat from the lamp will fry it in 20 minutes. Do not leave uneaten food in the terrarium for days on end. If your animal leaves any food after a few hours, throw it away. Do not leave it in the tank overnight, and do not try to feed it to them again later. If one or two insects are left overnight or even a tiny mouse, that's fine. He can find and eat them later. I should warn you though, crickets can get down right irritating when you're trying to sleep. You may have heard that crickets have been known to "nibble" at reptiles while they sleep—this shouldn't pose any threat however unless you have a fresh baby with an army of hungry crickets living in the cage with him.

One more thing—something that bothers me to no end are people who stubbornly insist that their inadequate diet works great just because "the animal seems to be fine". In email, there's not much I can tell these people except: "Sure he seem fine, UNTIL HE DIES." That may seem harsh, but some people are so unbelievably naive, and just plain stubborn about what they think is right that often times they just won't listen. I mean, of course the animal will seem fine until he actually starts to get sick. A lot of individuals believe that if their bluey seems healthy on a diet of only crickets, then well, the diet must be ideal, and no one can tell them otherwise! In these cases, the poor animal will eventually get sick, and these people will learn the hard way. One thing that makes convincing hard is that BTS are very resilient animals. They are literally tough as nails and in the wild go without eating for months on end, and survive very harsh winters. So back to the point, yes, BTS can live quite a while on a diet of nothing but crickets which tells the owner: "I've been doing this for a long time and haven't had any problems". But in the long run folks, this diet would lead to MBD and other problems because of the lack of calcium and other nutrients in the diet.

The same logic is used for lighting as well. Some people do not even bother with heat lamps because, once again, "the animal seems just fine without it". Imagine keeping a BTS in a dark box with no light at all, but DID give him plenty of food and water. Would the animal die? No. Would he likely live in that black box for years? Probably. Is it right? Of course not! The animal may be ALIVE, but it's cruel to not give it what it needs. As mentioned before, if an individual is neglectful enough to not provide proper care because his animal "seems fine", then it is doubtful he will even recognize beginnings of potential problems. Just remember that each and every little aspect of owning and keeping these great animals is combined together to work as a whole process -- that is, each part: the lights, the water, the food, everything works together to contribute to the well-being of the animal.

To get back on subject, you could literally feed your blue tongued skink nothing, and he would live for many months. You could also provide no heat, and he would also live for months, probably even years; but it would be a terrible quality of life. To keep your animal healthy in the long run, it is vitally important to maintain a healthy diet and appropriate temperatures. These creatures live upwards of 20-30 years, but they will not live that long if given a poor diet, and poor husbandry. It's as simple as that.

Here are the most nutritionally balanced foods to offer in each food category. These are foods that have the best balance all in itself (calcium & phosphorus for example). Mix in a little cat food, add a silkworm or two, and you have the best meal money can buy.

How to prepare meats
Chicken breasts, turkey breasts, lean ground turkey, lean ground beef, cooked shredded beef, etc, may all be cooked in a simple crock pot. If you don't have a crock pot, boiling in a simple pot of water works just as well. Cook it well so there is no pink remaining, and then cut into manageable pieces! We get a lot of questions about preparing meat, but there's really nothing special involved. You may also freeze large portions of meat. Quote from USDA website: "In meat and poultry products, there is little change in nutrient value during freezer storage." Frozen meats should be kept for no longer than usually 3 months. The best method for dethawing is to leave the frozen meat on the countertop, or put it in the fridge overnight. Dethawing in warm water works as well. Avoid dethawing in the microwave as it can be tricky. Avoid canned meats, lunchmeats and even deli meats! They are processed to no end, and usually very salty.

Foods to avoid
Avoid seafood. In my opinion, it is an unnecessary item. Some say it adds important 'micro-nutrients' like shrimp and different fish foods, but I don't do it which means you shouldn't do it either! Just kidding. Some BTS do actually eat small portions of water animals in the wild. If you do choose to give them some fish meat, it will not necessarily harm them. Here is a good quote from a user on the KS forum: " Because fish and reptiles are ectothermic vertebrates they tend to play host to many of the same endoparasites. This is not the case with mammals, birds and insects which have relatively few endoparasites in common with reptiles (and amphibians). So basically the reason you don't feed fish to reptiles is to reduce the chance of giving them parasites. " Now onto mushrooms. Some people feed with mushrooms, some don't. To me, there are too many questions involved like which mushrooms are the best, or which types are safe, and so on. There are hundreds of types of mushrooms, and hundreds of other great food choices, so don't bother. Avoid avocado, eggplant, and rhubarb. All are known to be toxic with some reptiles. Also, click here for a list of plants that are known to be dangerous to reptiles. Lastly, avoid spinach greens and lettuces—especially iceberg lettuce. Romaine has very little nutritional value, and iceberg is basically nothing but water. Remember, avoid canned meats, lunchmeats, and even deli meats. Also avoid citrus fruits. They're extremely sweet and very acidic. If you're going to feed them oranges, you may as well give them a bowl of orange juice! A little here and there is no problem though.


more info at Detailed Blue Tongue Skink Caresheet - BlueTongueSkinks.NET

[blacktits]

Hey Guys show me some of ur BTS, ill post mine soon

[blacktits]

Here Pacific my BTS, he has a regrown tail

[shiote]

Blue Tongued Skink


CARESHEET
Considering a Blue Tongue for a Pet
Let's start off by saying if you're considering a reptile as a pet, the blue tongue skink is a terrific choice. I've heard many people say, and I agree, that blue tongues are among the most intelligent species of lizard out there. For example, they can recognize sounds, recognize people, and we've actually almost completely house broken our male Irian Jaya. He never defecates in his terrarium ever. We take him outside for about 5 minutes before we take him in the car or let him on the carpet, and he goes every time. Part of this goes to getting him on a feeding schedule we've developed, and it's been highly effective. They're also large and smart enough to interact with, yet require very little maintenance. They live longer than most lizards, usually outliving even dogs and cats. Their average life span is about 20 years with reports of them living up to 30 years in captivity. They're fun to interact with, fun to hold, fun to take places, and if you take them in public, people act as though it's the most amazing thing they've ever seen. One likely reason you're searching for a lizard is for a pet for your children. You hit the jackpot in terms of reptiles. Blue tongues are great for kids and can be handled and played with...the kids of course should be supervised, and taught proper handling techniques, because these are still delicate creatures, and like any animal need to be handled with care. Another great reason is that they're slow. The kids can keep up with them. Bearded dragons are quick! You can let your blue tongue roam around, and he won't go anywhere fast (unless he's seriously spooked or just a baby). And lastly, blue tongues have no fur or feathers so if you're kid(s) have allergies, you won't have a thing to worry about. They are also diurnal so if you keep your animal in a bedroom, nobody will lose any sleep!

When considering a blue tongued skink as a pet, it's important to be aware of a few things. First of all, we DO NOT advise purchasing wild caught animals. Beside the fact that it's possibly illegal, they're often full of mites and internal parasites, and by NO MEANS ready to be a favorable pet. If you obtain a wild caught animal, it's important to get it "de-wormed" and checked out right away. Most (not all) Indonesian blue tongue skinks you see in a pet store are wild caught imports. They are often very unfriendly because they're WILD, and not used to human contact making them undesirable and unhappy. There are plenty of blue tongues for sale that are born captive, and ready to be great pets. If you see a Northern in a pet shop (which is unlikely), it is most assuredly a CaptiveBred as exporting from Australia is highly illegal. It is NOT illegal to export reptiles from Indonesia, and that's why almost all pet shop blue tongues are Indonesians. What you want to get instead, is a CB (captive bred) animal. Captive Bred of course means born in captivity. Quality captive bred blue tongues can be found on internet classifieds, your local newspapers, or if you're lucky, in pet shops. I've been to a lot of pet stores, and rarely have I seen blue tongue skinks (I'm referring to the U.S only, and disincluding any store that would specialize in them of course). The reason for this rarity is simple: It's just not cost efficient enough to breed them. Reptile hobbyists simply cannot produce enough offspring each year to make it worth their while. Take bearded dragons for example. They're an immensly popular lizard pet, VERY easy to reproduce, and very easy to sell quickly. Bearded dragons have about 3 clutches of eggs PER YEAR with about 15 or more offspring PER CLUTCH. That's a lot of babies in a single year to sell! Sell each baby at $30 each to a pet store, and that's a pretty nice chunk of change. This is why you see copious amounts of beardies in pet stores. Now take blue tongued skinks. Being viviparous, they give birth to live young so there are no eggs. That particularly doesn't matter, but they only give birth ONCE per year. And that's only if you're lucky, because sometimes it can even be every other year. Babies can number anywhere from 5 to 15, and up to 25 on rare occasions and only with certain species. So, you see...breeding blue tongue skinks is very uncommon (compared to bearded dragons for example), and seeing them in stores is even more uncommon. This is also one of the reasons that makes them so special though, and also why you see so many wild caughts for sale. It's a lot easier for an importer/exporter to snatch an animal out of the wild and sell it for a quick buck, rather than finding pairs to breed and waiting years on end for their offspring.

Buying
Note that this information is typical, but of course not exclusive to all pet stores and/or shows.

As we now know, pet stores usually do not carry blue tongues on a regular basis; especially compared to other popular lizards. And unfortunately, the few times you do see one, it is a wild caught animal in poor health. Pet stores will usually tell you what you want to here, and telling you that the blue tongue is captive bred (when they really have no idea) is usually not above them. If an employee (usually an unexperienced teen) has a chance of selling you an animal, and getting their cut of the sale, they'll do it. Many employees won't even know what wild caught vs. captive bred is all about. So to put it plainly, DO NOT RELY ON PET STORE ADVICE. Recognizing wild caught animals can be difficult because very often stores get in young animals that never got the chance to be exposed to harsh natural conditions. Adult wild caught animals can look rough. Scars, missing/broken toes, corroding lips, parasites, you name it. If they look beat up, they're most assuredly a wild caught. It's not a 100% indication however, as you can never know for sure if the guy across the street didn't drop off a recently bred female that he didn't have luck with (breeding consists of biting, and the females can sometimes sustain permanent scarring), but it's very unlikely. Afterall, who would sell a female that was possibly gravid (pregnant). Animals can also be in poor shape if the pet store keeps them in poor conditions. Blue tongues kept together (which is a risky and ignorant thing to do, but done all too often at pet stores) will often fight resulting in massive scars, bitten off feet, and severed tails. Here is an example of what a wild caught or neglected animal might look like upon careful inspection.
So, just remember to carefully look over the animal's condition, and ask as many questions as possible. Be frank, and be persistent. Don't let the pet store get the best of you. They will likely do whatever it takes to sell the animal to you. Remember, pet store employees are not experts on BTS. They are hired hands to sell animals for the company and collect a paycheck. A truly knowledgeable staff is rare. And knowledge of BTS is even more rare because the animals are so rarely sold. Be sure to do your research. If you have to ask THEM questions, you're not ready to own your reptile. Thoroughly learn everything you can, and have all your supplies up and running before purchasing your animal. When you've learned everything you can by reading and talking to experienced keepers (not teenagers working at the pet store), and YOU begin noticing that they are giving you wrong advice, and you start getting that angry bad feeling in the pit of your stomach, you are ready! Here are some tips to avoid fraud and misunderstandings. Be sure to ask each and every one of these questions below. If a seller cannot or does not answer clearly and in a timely manner, I would not make the purchase. Again, these types of sellers will not be there to help you when you need it. These questions can be used for both pet store and online purchases.
• Wild caught? (Is the animal wild caught or captive bred? Obviously avoid wild caught animals)
• Date born? (You'll be amazed how few sellers know this—if they don't know, the animal is likely wild caught as it's obviously impossible to determine the date of birth of an animal taken from the wild—if it's an older animal that has been changed hands over the years, then the date of birth would likely be lost—it's incredible how so few people keep track of this simple stat, as it's important for knowing the exact age of the animal! Remember, any animal under a year old could be considered a baby. Babies can appear nearly FULL GROWN in one year depending on how much they're fed, so if you buy a "baby" and expect a little 6 inch long lizard, don't be too surprised. That's why it's imperative to see EXACT pictures of the animal you are buying, and preferably pictures of the animal juxtaposed with a ruler if you're being told or expecting a certain size)
• Current diet? (What is he currently being fed? Always be sure a seller or pet store is providing a healthy diet before you buy—you don't want to end up with a neglected, sick, or MBD stricken animal—be sure a diet of freshly (and finely) chopped collard greens, fruits, and everything else you will read about further on down is being fed—don't let them tell you that their diet is "crickets")
• Current housing sizes and substrate? (Small tanks are a good sign that the seller has too many animals. The more the animals, the less care each individual one receives. Is the animal being housed on slipshod substrates? Read about them later on)
• Pictures of exact animal? (Be sure you know exactly what you're getting, and request EXACT pictures of the animal you are considering—an exorbitant amount of sellers just post a random picture of a BTS in an ad that's supposed to represent everything they have, so who knows what you'll actually get if you buy from them)
• Mites (Ask the seller to check carefully as they can be very difficult to see—ask about lifted scales, white specks, and tiny black dots walking around on the animal—tell them to look very closely and carefully as they're difficult to see if you don't have a trained eye)
• Exact species? (Be sure they actually know what they're selling—many sellers and pet stores don't even know that there are different BTS species—you will often hear "Eastern for sale" when it is actually an Irian Jaya. This is another reason why requesting EXACT pictures is important)
• Being housed separately? (BTS should be housed separately, especially if you are purchasing an adult. Expect cuts, missing toes, and severed tails from animals that have been housed together)
• Where skink originally came from? (Over half of all sellers will claim to have no idea where their skink came from. Don't be fooled. Animals don't mysteriously show up on people's doorsteps)
• Guarantees and warranties? (What are the company's or indvidual's health guarantees and warranties? Guaranteed live arrival? If so, one day? One week? Will they offer customer service after you get the animal? Are you free to call them on the phone if you have a question? Remember, people who are hard to get a hold of, or don't answer questions thoroughly will NOT be there when you need help)

Social Interaction and Handling
As I mentioned above, blue tongued skinks make great reptile pets for kids because they are so easily handleable. They have smooth, shiny scales and hard bodies (unlike bearded dragons, iguanas, uyromastyx, etc), and that to me makes them a bit easier to hold. They're also fairly stiff in the sense that when you hold them, it doesn't feel like you're squishing them. Whenever I handle say a Uyromastyx, their body and skin is so delicate that I always feel like I'm crushing them. Blue tongues have hard, tough bodies and can handle the firm grip of a child.

Interaction
Blue tongues have tiny little legs and feet, so they don't go anywhere fast (although they are capable of surprising speeds when in pursuit of live prey), and they have very personable, almost human eyes. When you approach them, you can actually see them looking at you. You cannot make eye contact with any snake or gecko. You can make actual eye contact with a blue tongued skink, and that to me can develop a bond between a skink and its owner. I honestly believe that a blue tongued skink can develop a certain recognition for their owners. All in all, the best way to get to know your skink is to hold it often, let it wander around outside its cage, hand-feed it, lay it on your chest and let it watch T.V with you...anything you want! Have fun! The keyword is interaction. If you do this, you will soon have a very lazy, tame, and friendly skink. They generally are pretty lazy, so they really do just sort of hang out—more so as adults. If you're looking to race your skinks, then this is probably not the lizard for you. They are however, VERY curious. If they're in the right mood, they love to explore. Set up some newspapers, blankets, empty cereal boxes, etc. They will search in and out, and in every nook and cranny with their big blue tongue going ever faster. It's a blast too watch! After a while, you'll just find him asleep.

One question we get a lot is: "Do BTS like to be handled"? There is a large range of views on this subject. Some keepers believe that handling should be kept to a minimum as reptiles only "tolerate" handling rather than actually enjoying or benefitting from it—at the same time however, most still believe that the skink will enjoy an occasional romp outdoors in the sun. Remember that blue tongued skinks are not domesticated like a dog or cat. They are wild animals, BUT if a reptile does benefit from being out and about, I'm not sure that that differs from anything else whether it be walking in the grass, walking on your lap, walking on the floor, or doing anything else outside its regular cage. I know they don't, in a sense, "want" certain things, so when I place my hand in the baby's cage and they immediately run to it and crawl up, do they *want* to be held, or do they *want* to explore elsewhere besides in their cage? I think that they just live their life and take things as it comes, and a captive bred bluey's curiosity often gets the best of them (sudden captivity would essentially be a culture shock for a wild caught pet). When they don't feel threatened, and are used to a life in captivity, I think they are curious about everything; the sky, the grass, different foods, various sounds, and yes, you and me as well. That curiosity is satisfied which is evident in their often obvious change in behavior when interacted with, and whether that be enjoying the sun outdoors, or being petted on the head, it's stimulation and interaction that is beneficial in my book.

For most, handling is a big part of enjoying your BTS. I know that's a broad statement and not true for everyone, but for the most part, handling and interaction can be one of the best aspects of owning these creatures.

Can people really bond with BTS?
Absolutely! Something that many people don't realize (and likely never will) is that lizards are not the creepy crawly scary animals that society has made them out to be. If you are reading this, you likely know exactly what I'm talking about. The redundant yet obligatory reactions of disgust and even pure terror. This is commonplace, and a true shame. It's difficult to explain to someone who is hard in their ways, but each one of these animals has its own unique personality and own funny characteristics. They even show intelligence such as recognition of their owner, recognition for sound (shaking bags, their name being said, opening of the tank lid) memory of locations, recognition of gestures such as lowering a bowl into the cage, recognition of color (foods, etc) and objects, likes and dislikes of food, and an incredible inquisitive nature and curiosity of their surroundings. Many will never experience this or understand it because they simply won't give reptiles a chance. They see them as "icky slimy creatures" and very few people could even tell you exactly why they don't like them. Every person I know who was nervous around these animals at first immediately warmed up to them once seeing the personality in their eyes, their curious nature, and calm disposition. The usual reponse: "Wow, I had no idea". Once some of these people form bonds of their own with the BTS, it completely changes their entire perspective on reptiles. Of course, there are always those adverse individuals who will shriek and act as if they're about to die. I'm not sure there's much hope for them!

Personality
Every blue tongue literally has his own individual personality, and you will quickly learn his favorite food preferences, his likes and dislikes, etc. Blue tongues are also fast learners, and adapt quickly to their environment. There are lots of stories out there about blue tongues doing funny/amazing things, but many people attribute it to anthropomorphization (giving human characteristics to an animal), however I've seen some remarkable stories that are true. Many swear that their lizards will react differently to sounds, certain words, and so on. Personally, one of my skinks does react to different sounds. Check out the video section for videos demonstrating voice recognition, and the shaking of a bag. My big male Irian Jaya has a funny characteristic—we let him bask out in the grass during the hot summers. We put him pretty far out and leave our patio screen door open about two inches while we relax in lawn chairs. He lays there and basks usually motionless for about 20 minutes, then starts exploring. When he's done (and this is literally every day we take him outside) he climbs up the patio, heads for the door, and goes straight inside! If the door is closed, he paces back and forth until let in. If we leave the screen open half an inch—he will stick his nose in and wedge the sliding screen open. Now, telling anyone that my skink comes in the house everyday on his own might sound far fetched. But, what can I say—he does it every single day. None of my other skinks do it, they wander off, and we have to retrieve them. It's really taught me to be more open minded, and to not jump on people immediately saying: "No way". More experienced reptile owners attribute most of these personalities to coincidences and an active imagination. I'm sure not all stories are true, but I'm sure many are. You'll hear a lot of them if you join a reptile forum/community!

All in all, there's nothing wrong with a fancy imagination in my opinion—stories are fun to read and quite humorous—even if they are a little far fetched. I'd much rather owners take notice and be excited enough about their reptile to even share a story—no matter how ridiculous it may sound. It shows that the person really cares, and is excited about what they are doing which usually results in good care. "Lizard leashes" are looked down upon by some, but used as a tool by others. If you can actually get one to work (which is hard because they streamline their legs with their bodies, and it's like trying to put a snake on a leash) then it can be used to keep your skink from wandering off. Tie one end to the leg of your lawn chair, a tree or fence post and try your luck. Don't get too comfortable lying in the sun with him however because he'll likely wiggle his way out in no time.

Can BTS make noise?
Aside from quiet grunting and/or funny little squeeks, BTS are completely silent. If your BTS begins struggling while you have a firm grip, once in a while he'll let out little squeeks or grunts almost like a person would while trying to reach something far away. My male Merauke (Sunny) grunts pretty loudly while being held, but I haven't heard it from any of my others. A lot of times the grunts almost sound like a whimper.

Getting Peed On
If a bluey starts to go to the bathroom on you—which usually results from an excessively strong grip or a body that is not fully supported—DO NOT PANIC! Many people get very startled, and throw the animal off their lap in a panic. A blue tongue's urine is just water, and has no scent or color. Excrement however, is obviously more odorous, but it's nothing that will stain or hurt you. Remember, it is possible to get your bluey on a feeding schedule, which essentially gets them on a "waste cycle". They normally defecate once per day (unless they have loose stool), and it's probably not a good idea to let them wander around outside their cage until they've done their business. A word of advice: Blue tongues tend to defecate/urinate once they become active. They often hide or sleep in their cages, so once you take them out, excreting their bodily fluids is often the first thing that happens. Just be sure to take them out in the grass for a few minutes, and they usually go right away. If you see waste in their cage upon returning home, you're good to go! Keep in mind that if your BTS has the runs, he could go a number of times during the day, and at any time.

Proper Handling Techniques
There are many ways to hold a blue tongue skink, but the most important thing to remember is to keep the animal's ENTIRE body supported. Especially their hindquarters. Proper handling is also important to teach your children, otherwise when held, you will have a very finicky and panicked blue tongued skink. If their backside is not supported, they will fling their tails around wildly because they don't feel secure and feel as though they're going to fall. If you've ever heard of blue tongues peeing on you, this is the time they'll do it. However, when handled in a correct and responsible manner, you will have no problems. The following three pictures show the best methods for handling. The first is probably our favorite. Simply lay your blue tongue across your underarm, just so his nose touches your bicep, then support his backside with your palm. This creates complete security and support for his entire body. You can use your right or left arm, whichever you are most comfortable with. The second pic is basically the same idea except his head and tail are switched. The third picture shows a method that is easy for moving your blue tongue short distances. Simply lift him from behind, and prop him up on your free hand.
Always remember that these are not little geckos or anoles, so it's important that you do not drop your animal. You could likely get away with an accidental drop with a tiny lizard or even a long snake, but a BTS would fall like a brick. I would start children off by holding them in their laps, and petting them on the ground. Also, never attempt to hold your BTS upside down. He will struggle to his maximum strength and bones can pop out of place and even break.

Hand washing
As a good rule of thumb, it's smart to wash your hands before and after handling your skink or any reptile (hand sanitizer works well in a pinch) both to protect your animal from foreign bacteria, and also yourself. Zoonosis is extremely rare however, but hand washing is still recommended. We discuss salmonella later on.

bai butangi sad ni link asa ni nimu gi copy. hehe )

[blacktits]

bai butangi sad ni link asa ni nimu gi copy. hehe )

naa btaw btw shaun gave the BTS to me nah yehey

[moy1moy1]

ayay nakabantay ku nag sugod nag gawas ang tinaguan ni blacktits hahaha!! sunod ani savannah monitor nani ron, or Chameleon hehehe

[blacktits]

ayay nakabantay ku nag sugod nag gawas ang tinaguan ni blacktits hahaha!! sunod ani savannah monitor nani ron, or Chameleon hehehe

sunod savan monitor for sure, huwat lng ko naa sad mga istoryans na naa savana para dli ra ako mag post

[blacktits]

BTW pacific will be going under surgery soon, bcos of her spinal injury due to the drop by previous owner