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  1. #41

    Ako usual kay sa Photoshop, "Save As For Web" then i-resize nako to 35% then 8 ang quality (i think "Very High" ni xa)... pang multiply ni nga post nako usually.

    Quote Originally Posted by nowayL View Post
    Mga Bro, unsa man gyud sakto kadako inighuman na ug PP nya imoha na i-resize for JPEG para dili kaayo maapektuhan ang quality... tia

  2. #42
    i haven't had problems with USM. I've been using USM for all my shots for magazines, tarps and even billboards.

  3. #43
    Please bear with me as this is my first step by step workflow post.

    here's a peek on my film-look Post Process Workflow:

    1. It all starts with the framing and lighting. Take this shot for example that I took during a recent shoot with a photo club at Fort San Pedro. This was shot in the morning but it a bit overcast.

    If you watch movies, you'll notice that ALL movies are of landscape orientation. So I composed the shot with that in mind. i gave a little allowance on both the top and the bottom of the frame (i'll explain why in a while.)



    2. I copied the background layer then used USM to remove the haze. Amount : 18 Radius: 40 Threshold: 0. I also adjust the curves to brighten the photo a bit more than usual.



    3. A third copy of the layer was then made and using a plug-in that imitates Polaroid films, I used one to imitate a film called Polachrome which gives the darker and contrasty look to bring out the details of the scenery and a little grain.



    4. Two more layers were added to put a top black bar and a bottom black bar. remember the allowance i gave during on the composition for the top and bottom part of the frames? These were for the bars for the aesthetic touch of a film.



    5.Time clean up. Merge all the layers to a new layer by pressing Ctrl + Alt + Shift + E. Using both healing brush and clone tools, I cleaned up the leaves and even the unpainted area of the bench.

    My clone tool's hardness is set at 18% so that it blends smoothly. The Healing Brush is set at around 54% for the same effect.



    6. Smoothen out the skin and uneven cracks on the floor to soften.



    7. As an added touch, I decided to put a light vignette with a 50% opacity.



    8. Added my watermark which is I have set as a brush to make things easier. And I end up with this:



    Hope you like it.
    Last edited by pnoize; 10-02-2009 at 06:25 PM.

  4. #44
    wow.. sir benj.. nice.. gotta try this one ^^

  5. #45
    Forever Newbie BeoR's Avatar
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    Nice. Thanks for sharing people! Ga nosebleed ko kay USM ra or Smart Sharpen akong nahibaw-an aside from global adjustments... hehe

  6. #46
    kini, mao na ni, salamat sir Benj...

  7. #47
    WOW! thanks for sharing your workflow sir benj...was very educational.

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by pnoize View Post
    Please bear with me as this is my first step by step workflow post.

    here's a peek on my film-look Post Process Workflow:

    1. It all starts with the framing and lighting. Take this shot for example that I took during a recent shoot with a photo club at Fort San Pedro. This was shot in the morning but it a bit overcast.

    If you watch movies, you'll notice that ALL movies are of landscape orientation. So I composed the shot with that in mind. i gave a little allowance on both the top and the bottom of the frame (i'll explain why in a while.)



    2. I copied the background layer then used USM to remove the haze. Amount : 18 Radius: 40 Threshold: 0. I also adjust the curves to brighten the photo a bit more than usual.



    3. A third copy of the layer was then made and using a plug-in that imitates Polaroid films, I used one to imitate a film called Polachrome which gives the darker and contrasty look to bring out the details of the scenery and a little grain.



    4. Two more layers were added to put a top black bar and a bottom black bar. remember the allowance i gave during on the composition for the top and bottom part of the frames? These were for the bars for the aesthetic touch of a film.



    5.Time clean up. Merge all the layers to a new layer by pressing Ctrl + Alt + Shift + E. Using both healing brush and clone tools, I cleaned up the leaves and even the unpainted area of the bench.

    My clone tool's hardness is set at 18% so that it blends smoothly. The Healing Brush is set at around 54% for the same effect.



    6. Smoothen out the skin and uneven cracks on the floor to soften.



    7. As an added touch, I decided to put a light vignette with a 50% opacity.



    8. Added my watermark which is I have set as a brush to make things easier. And I end up with this:



    Hope you like it.

    try nya nako ni...

  9. #49
    Thank You Very Much Master Benjie for sharing some of your workflow here. You will forever be Remembered. May You Rest In Peace...


  10. #50
    bai norwin, this looks very familiar..was this taken during our photography workshop ba?

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