OT:
Google university 'ta pa enroll, unya atong classroom ang istorya.net ug ang laboratory atong sakyanan.
The more we share online labi na dire sa atoa, the more madali ang pag improve nato.
OT:
Google university 'ta pa enroll, unya atong classroom ang istorya.net ug ang laboratory atong sakyanan.
The more we share online labi na dire sa atoa, the more madali ang pag improve nato.
OT:
Tumpak gyud boss, uyon gyud ko ana , mao ni naka lamang nato ron, it`s so easy for us to find information regarding our problems and solutions to it, butangi na lang ug requirements sad boss kung unsay mga kinahanglan para maka share....sugdan nako ha...
Requirements:
Must have a camera phone at least dual core with a camera
Must have a basic knowledge on MS paint editing
Must know how to put pictures here in istorya.net threads
sumpayi na lang boss verns kung unsa pa ang ubang requirements... and most of all ikaw among Maestro ha
OT: Internet access ra pinakabasic requirement ug ang pagkugi.
Sa karon nga panahon, we're building a huge library using blogs and forums, by sharing experiences like solutions to a problem we are adding reference books.
Example sa gi share dire: Improving a cooling system efficiency (mas maayo ang heat transfer) while preventing the usual blown head gasket problem due to rust. Gamit ug 150-200ml Island brand rust converter mixed with rain water or distilled water as your radiator water. No more coolant mix kay toxic kaayo na ug daghan are not aware of it. Kini nga pamaagi, barato na ug effective pa - daghang benefits unya minus gasto.
Better heat transfer is better engine performance. The resulting mix can conduct heat faster than ordinary water or conventional coolant mixture. Rust always expand its coverage area, with the current solution you stop it from spreading, you're converting rust into a much stable compound that protects the surface from deteriorating - longer cooling system life, that's longer engine life. The time you want to dispose the solution and replace a new one, just flush it out of the cooling system and flush it with water - pwede saloron nimo aron sagolan ug daghang tubig ulan and use it to water your plants sa garden - happy na sila kay fertilizer na nga solution, rich in phosphorous. Walay usik. Pero kay limpyo man permi iming cooling system, no need na ilabay pa ni nimo once naa na sa imong cooling system. Daginot kaayo.
mga bro, dili kinahanglang graduate ta sa automotive, ME or EE or electronics aron makat.on ta aning mga butanga. kinahanglan lang jud ta magtuki kung unsa ato wala masabti... pagkugi ra ug paghatag ug higayon ang pina kasusi naa toud ta libre nga eskwelahan online, paendrol lang mo sa Youtube Institute of Tecnology (YIT) nga mao ako alma mater ug sa Google University (GU) nga hantud karon gapadaun pako sa ako masteral degree... hehehe
mao gyud boss hehe, usahay sad experience is the best teacher, kana pung experience ha nga based on the laws of physics mapa mechanical, electrical or electronic kay wala gyuy magic aning kalibutana
back on topic na ta mga boss kay basin malatos ta sa mods diri
Currently im trying to hardmod the block water preheating hoses because I removed my thermostat and I observed nga instead sa 2 minutes ra akong warm-up time sa makina nahimo nang 4 minutes, im OK with the results kay mas stable akong temperature gauge, lansang gyud sa 1/4 sa meter , before nga wa pa nako kuha-a mufluctuate ug 1/2 labi na ug loaded ko nya udtong dako nya gasaka sa busay, karon mapa uphill or ma udto as in lansang gyud sa 1/4 so im cutting the bypass steel tubes on the block and plug it and the 5/16 steel tube connected to the 5/8 tube going to the thermostat housing, basin magturno ko ug laing thermostat housing ug porma using a brass material without the T tubes para mas simplified na gyud tan-awon akong makina wa nay daghang hoses nga way gamit post nya ko ug pics after nako mahuman akong water system hardmod
Side note: im aware on the pro`s and con`s of removing the thermostat ha nya pabor sad ko nga kuha-on ang thermostat kay mas stable gyud ug temperature ang makina so I dont need the throttle body preheater and the block recirculating hoses, aware sad ko why manufacturers made it like that para maski asa nga country adaptable ilang thermal design, nahug ug pwede sa bugnaw nya pwede sad sa init nga lugar, ang culprit ra gyud ani nga system design is the age of material, aluminum block and radiator tends to dissipate less kung magkadugay na ang material so to speed up the thermal dissipation on old aluminum block & rad is to increase water circulation thus removing the restrictor or regulator which is the thermostat, BTW im not reaching 7-9K on my RPM`s nga mu cause ug coolant clouding sa coolant nga makapahinay ug dissipate sa init if it occurs...
Here are the pics before and after the modification of my waterline pipe and thermostat housing, handcrafted gyud ni nako tanan, I used a larger diameter soft drawn copper pipe para less restriction sa waterflow padung sa waterpump...I installed back the ECT switch for electrical efficiency reasons, di ko ganahan magcge ug ON akong fans maski buntag pa or first pa nga andar sa akong makina,
Before:
This is one of the reasons why car manufacturers dont use acidic compounds as additive on an engine coolant...because the cooling system has different metals (some are positively charged and others are negatively charged metals) these metals such as steel, copper, aluminum and brass tends to electroplate each other kung acidic ang ibutang sa tubig, in my case akong steel pipe hapit na nibara tungod sa white sediments sa aluminum+acidic water mixture nga gibutang sa previous owner,
After:
Say hello to my new waterline
There are some challenges ani nga D-I-Y, unsa-on pag measure sa waterpump borehole without taking apart the intake manifold, I needed it to be precised (Slide fit) otherwise it will leak on that connector, O-ring ra raba ang ga hold sa water pressure, I cannot measure the original pipe since it`s heavily rusted and deformed....
Asa kaha ta kapalit ug ingon ani nga rims nuh?
Still looking pa gyud ko ug rims hehehe
I currently changed my front crankshaft oil seal to a new one kay naay gamay leaking padung sa akong oil pan im gonna post some detailed pics on the inside of the engine later, I changed my 13`s into 15`s with new tires
Sus kung wala koy pneumatic tools di gyud ko patuga2x ani nga trabaho as in grabe ka mga ku-oton ang mga bolts halos di ma sigo ako kamot....it`s a 30 minute job basta naay pneumatic tools, pero kung wala aw murag kuwangon ra ang isa ka adlaw sa pag tang2x lang sa main pulley
Di sad di-ay lalim mag ilis ug crankshaft oil seal uy, no wonder dako2x gyud ug pangayo ug labor ang honda service center, pero kung D-I-Y 350 php ra gyud tawon akong gasto
in-ani kalingaw kung D-I-Y
Washed and done...
Burloloy...
Actually duwa ka unit akong gitrabaho, honda city LXi AT sa akong kauban sa trabaho, lingaw kaayo ko ug binugkagay kay pareho ra gyud ang unit except manual tranny lang ako-a nya automatic tranny ang usa, I worked from 8:00am ganiha to 11:30am, two birds in one shot ang kalabasan, mas dugay iyaha kay nag replace ko ug timing belt kay worn-out na iyaha due to the crankshaft seal severe leaking na gyud last year pa kuno sige ug drip iyang crankcase ug oil...mao na di gyud ko musalig kung makakita ko ug baligya nga sakyanan nya lady driven ang naka specify mostly wa gyuy klaro ang PMS kung babae ang driver maski leaking na cge lang gihapon padagan, way check-up2x sa makina ang resulta inig admit sa sakyanan worse case scenario na gyud ang kalabasan...
Next project nako is ang rim paint (black) ug brake caliper/drum painting (red) next weekend na sad hehehe
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