What tarantulas & scorpions would you recommend for beginners?

[retrievern15]

---

@ErapGuapo: bag.o pku ani na hobby bai peru pag.palit jud nku sa g.rosea, aku dayung gi.handle with all the risk, but wa mn ni paak or ni treat, hehe, so i can say na docile jud ang rosea.

[ErapGuapo]

@retrievern15 salamat bro...mag sugod pa sad ko ani nga hobby and hopefully I will enjoy it. Laay mn daw na ang g.rosea bro kay mag fasting daw..haha...tinood na?..nahan ko kanang mo dako jud ba...then pwede ma gunitan...

[azland]

we cannot say tarantulas are docile, they still have the character of being a biter, who knows change of temper, they will have.. in my case since i've been raising/growing or whatever you may call it. the best one for me are the Grammostola's and the Brachy's. they have the character of being a "che bahala kadiha" attitude..

depending on the owner's side on how they handle they're pets. for me most of my T's i can handle. the only one's that i don't well lets just say scared "as i called respect" are the Acanthuscurria's. genic i can handle with it, but Brockle's damn they are quite a biter. fisty i should say..

Versi's are very attractive T's due to their coloration. but as sir trex exclaim/explain they're quite sensitive on the humidity side, i've had 3 of these guys on my care all dead. tried various of ways on how to get that humidity requirement that they want, well it didn't work out for me, but im still not giving up on them,.. for beginners starter T's, its a risk to take.

Grammostola are well known for their fasting,. the key to this (as master phinx did his homework) the cost of a tarantulas fasting is its environment requirement. actually they live in scrublands meaning dry, seldomly with water or most of it no water only moisture at night. they can live without water intake for weeks, months.. in captivity we hobbyist have the mistake of keeping them in a tank with so much wet area, if you have very moist enclosure then thats the time the fasting occurs.. but if you kept them in a dry seldomly watered tank imitating its environment in the wild them you'll be in trouble, food shortage will be the next thing to think of..

anyways research is the main point here in finding that perfect starter/beginner T's that you would want to takecare at..

its up to you which one's you like. as long as you know what you are doing.. if CAS or some other guys here will do the rescuing thingy.. hehehehe!!

happy inverts guys..

[ErapGuapo]

if you happen to get bitten by a T...is it deadly??.....or it depends on what breed your T is?...

[retrievern15]

@erapgwapo: ana sila bai cge daw fasting, mao pud na nabasahan nku sa net.... peru ang aku, tag 3 ka roaches ang mahurut kada adlaw, bwlng nanu ni,, kusug mn jud siya mukaon. mahandle rmn nku akung rosea bai, as what ive said, pagpalit jud nku ani aku dayung gi,handle,, but if you want to handle them, let them crawl into you hands, kaysa imahag nimu imung kamut..

[Pakoy1983]

Gud pm... Share lang ko sa akong T's..... Para nako ok kaayo ni cla pang beginners....

Lasiodora Klugi A.K.A. Bahia Scarlet Birdeater





Brachypelma Smithi

[Silver_deviL]

first T b.albo 5inches nata karon ako lang g baligya then b.emilia 3inches na , p.regalis 2.5 inches na ,chaco golden knee 2cm pa. ,a.metallica 1nch na,a,geniculata 1.5 inches na.. hahha yeah!!


first scorp.. c.margaritatus daun h.longi r.junceus emperor .. weee haha





kung barato lang una... aw b.albo and g.rose pero kung nahan ug nindot nga T.. a.versi a.metallica tanan avics.. hahah for scorps h.longi gyud.. kay barato nya dali ra kaau ma hikap.. hahha

[Trex]

Good day mga arachnid hobbyists........

Gud pm... Share lang ko sa akong T's..... Para nako ok kaayo ni cla pang beginners....

Lasiodora Klugi A.K.A. Bahia Scarlet Birdeater





Brachypelma Smithi

kanindot ani imo beginner Ts bai...hahaha wai kurat...

first T b.albo 5inches nata karon ako lang g baligya then b.emilia 3inches na , p.regalis 2.5 inches na ,chaco golden knee 2cm pa. ,a.metallica 1nch na,a,geniculata 1.5 inches na.. hahha yeah!!
yeah bai mga nindot jud na imo Ts...hehe.
first scorp.. c.margaritatus daun h.longi r.junceus emperor .. weee haha
hehe mga gahi pod uban nimo na scorpions bai...
kung barato lang una... aw b.albo and g.rose pero kung nahan ug nindot nga T.. a.versi a.metallica tanan avics.. hahah for scorps h.longi gyud.. kay barato nya dali ra kaau ma hikap.. hahha
sakto jud ka bai....hehe

[Trex]

I would just like to re-post this for all invert hobbyists......

The top ten questions new tarantula keepers ask and need to know.

• Which tarantulas are recommended for first timers?

Basically, any of the desert terrestrial species such as those that belong to Aphonopelma, Brachypelma, and Grammostola are hardy, docile and great for beginners.
Aphonopelma anax – Texas tan
Aphonopelma chalcodes - desert blond
Aphonopelma hentzi – Texas brown
Avicularia avicularia - pinktoe
Brachypelma albopilosum - curlyhair
Brachypelma emilia - Mexican redleg
Brachypelma smithi - Mexican redknee
Eupalaestrus campestratus - pink zebra beauty
Grammostola aureostriata - Chaco goldenknee
Grammostola pulchra - Brazilian black
Grammostola rosea - Chilean rose

• What do I keep a tarantula in?

This all depends on the size of the tarantula. If you start with a tarantula sling, you can generally keep it in the vial or container that it came in for a molt or two. I like to put tarantula slings in a vial that is 2-3 times it's legspan in diameter, and then bump it up in size when it reaches 75% of that diameter. Once a tarantula sling is an inch or so, keeping it in a delicup is a great way to save money and space. Once they reach 2 inches they could be kept in a mini Kritter Keeper. Any smaller than this and they could escape through the top. For larger tarantulas, which are in the 3-5 inch range, larger Kritter Keepers make great cages, but can get costly if you have a large collection. Shoe boxes are an economical alternative. Then all you need to do is drill or melt a few holes in the lid and sides for ventilation. Aquariums are great for larger display pets. For tarantulas that are in the 3-5 inch range a 2.5 or 5.5 gallon aquarium is the perfect size. Many people like to use 10 gallon aquariums because they are cheap and easy to find. These, however, are a little big for anything that is less than 6 inches. They can be used, but you'll find that your tarantula doesn't utilize the entire thing. 10 gallons are great for tarantulas in the 6-9 inch range, anything larger than that might require a 20L. Always be sure that the lid is secure, and absolutely escape-proof. You'd be surprised how small of a crack that a tarantula can fit through, basically if it can squeeze its carapace through, then it can get its whole body through. Dividing a cage is not a good idea; some people want to salvage their old aquarium and make a home for 2 tarantulas. Great care must be taken, because a determined tarantula can and will find a way to cross the barrier and eat the other tarantula. They are remarkably strong for their size and can push a lid up to get across the barrier if given the latitude to do so.

• What do I use for substrate?

First off you want to make sure that there are no chemicals in the substrate, this means no fertilizers or pesticides. Second you want to make sure it has no rough or coarse surfaces, this means no sand, gravel, or rocks. Lastly you want something that is soft, will retain moisture (without molding) and will hold its shape in the event that the tarantula wants to burrow. There is no perfect substrate out there, most people usually end up creating their own mix by using any of the following: Potting soil, peat moss, coconut coir/cocopeat, sand (a little mixed in is OK), and vermiculite (to retain moisture).

• What cage accessories are needed?

Not many, less is more in this case. Your tarantula needs a hide to give it a place to burrow and feel secure. This can be a piece of cork bark, a halved coconut shell, or a clay flower pot. A water dish is also necessary for tarantulas over a 2 inch legspan. Look for something that is about the same size as the legspan of the tarantula. Put some rocks or a piece of slate in it to give the crickets a place to climb out. Crickets are dumb and usually end up jumping into the water dish, unless they can grab onto something and climb out, they'll drown, and foul up the water.

• What do I feed a tarantula?

Basically all tarantulas can survive and thrive on a diet of invertebrates. The staple food for tarantulas is crickets, roaches and mealworms are also great foods. Some owners of larger species choose to feed small lizards, frogs and mice to their pets. Many find this to be inhumane, since it is not necessary and is not a part of the tarantula's normal diet. Yes, it is likely that they occasionally eat these things in the wild, but only if it happens to come near them, they don't go out in search of them. What you feed you r pet is ultimately up to you.

• How much and how often do I feed a tarantula?

Growing tarantula slings should be fed whatever they want, usually a small cricket every other day or so. Larger tarantulas that are not growing quite so quickly only need a good feeding once a week. Many people feed more often or less often. I like to feed 1-2 crickets at a time, once or twice a week. Some feed just on the weekends and give a larger meal, other with large collections only feed every 2-4 weeks. Tarantulas can survive for months without food, so you don't need to worry about them starving. The key is to find a feeding schedule that works with your schedule and satisfies your tarantulas. Pick a starting point, like once per week, and adjust it if you think your T needs more or less. Any uneaten crickets should be removed after 1 day. Tarantulas by nature are nocturnal hunters, so they may not eat until the night time. But if the cricket is still there in the morning then the tarantula is not interested in eating it.

• What temperature do I need to keep a tarantula at?

Most tarantulas would be perfectly happy at any temperature within the range of 70-85 degrees F (22-30 deg C). Most often times your normal room temperature is sufficient. Supplemental heating is only necessary if the temp is consistently below 70. Night time drops in temp down to 65 are OK too.

• Can I handle my tarantula?

This is the second most widely debated topic in the hobby. The short answer is yes, most beginner species are docile enough to be handled. It does need to be noted that any interaction between a tarantula and a human (aside from feeding) is done solely in the interest of the human. A tarantula gains nothing from the interaction. There is also a great risk (to both the tarantula and the keeper) that must be understood and accepted before attempting to handle. First the tarantula is in great risk of injury or death should it suffer from a fall or being dropped. Their abdomen and joints are very fragile and a fall of a foot or so could be fatal. If you decide to handle you need to be comfortable enough with it that you're not going to flinch and accidentally drop the tarantula. Likewise tarantulas can get spooked and may decide to take off or jump, you need to make sure that if that happens, the tarantula can not fall very far. This is achieved by sitting on the floor and handling low to the ground. Next there is risk of getting bitten if the tarantula is not in the mood to be held, or many species (including all beginner species listed above) possess urticating hair that they can rub off from their abdomen. These hairs can cause an itching sensation on the skin and can really be harmful if inhaled or if they get into your eyes.

Now that all being said, if you understand the risks, and take the proper precautions and respect your tarantulas, then you can handle them and enjoy the experience. If you do opt to handle you should always test the temperament of the tarantula first, don’t just reach in and grab it. Gently nudge it from behind with a paintbrush, if it takes a couple steps forward then it should be fine to handle. If it sprints away or turns to face the brush then it is not in the mood. If it doesn't budge then it could go either way. Don't pick the tarantula up directly; instead gently nudge it onto your hand. Let it crawl onto your hand as if your hand is just another piece of substrate. I like to scoop the tarantula up with a delicup first, then let it crawl out onto my hand.

• How long does a tarantula live?

Depends on the species and the gender of the tarantula. Slow growing desert species can live up to 20-30 years or more if they are female, the males tend to mature after 3-8 years. Quicker growing species like some arboreals have a shorter lifespan of maybe 15 years for females and 1-3 years for males.

• What do I do when if my tarantula is on its back and not moving?

Don't touch it. It is molting. Don't disturb it with noise or vibration. Sit back and watch in awe. Don't worry it is not dying. Tarantulas don’t die on their back, unless there is a problem with the molt (which sometimes happens with old tarantulas), if a tarantula is dying it will look shriveled and the legs will curl up under the tarantula like a clenching fist.

The molting process can take anywhere from a few minutes to several hours. Older tarantulas take longer to molt. Small growing tarantulas can molt every couple of months, older or mature tarantulas tend to molt once per year and very old tarantulas may even skip a year or two in-between molts.

From: arachnofreaks.com.

[ErapGuapo]

waaaaaaaaaaaaahh...

makes me wanna have a T even more...hehehe