comment lang ko gamay bro ha, I think gamay ra ang 25V because let`s say for example, XRM 125 has a charging rate of 6 amps. @ 30-35VDC peak RPM unregulated, meaning diode ra akong gita-ud wa pay regulator, so kung ita-ud na nako ang regulator, the output will be 13.9V-14.4V, which is the safezone values sa battery, kay kung musobra na ug 16V na ang charging state sa regulator mu cause na ug battery shortlife, so imbis muabot ug tag 2-3 ka tuig na ang battery, ang uban di na, ang uban swerte na lang ug muabot ug 8 months, so in that case leaking na ang regulator and needs to be replaced, karon ato nang i- insert ang problem scenario sa naay nakata-ud nga capacitor with a 25V limit, so if ever mag leaking na ang voltage regulator which is so unpredictable raba kay usahay connectors ra ang mag loose contact (specially the ground wire sa regulator) mu overvolt na ang output charging, usahay leaking gyud ang mismo regulator electronics inside due to outside factors like electric welding transient spikes etc. in this scenario mu overvolt na ang charging state into 35VDC @ high RPM, normally it will destroy the battery separator inside leaving the battery resistance into an open state, after ma open na ang battery resistance, kini ang delikado kay mahurot na ug kabuto tanang capacitor nga inyong gita-ud kay 25V ra man nya ang musulod kay 30V-35V nya with that size of capacitor it`s like firing a .45 caliber pistol, in-ana kakusog na mubuto ang isa lang ka capacitor nga 10,000 uf, imagine nga 4 kabu-ok ang magsabay
Nya about sa capacitance I think 40,000 uf is too overkill, kay naa koy project bike nga XL 125 with a modified stator electrical, ang alternator voltage ani mu-abot ug 40VDC @ high RPM @ single phase, karon i dont wanna use the shunt type regulator nga original design sa XL 125 gyud mismo kay kusug kaayo musunog ug stator ang primitive design kay shunt type man lagi, so i use the regulator with an open type design, sa skygo wizzard 150 akong gigamit kay open type nya single phase sad nya barato ra sad hehehe, now let`s move on sa akong mga tests, di ko ganahan mag battery kay aside sa additional weight maglisud na sad ko ug butang kay ako laging gi usab ang body mismo sa XL
![Cheesy](images/smilies/cheesy.gif)
, karon nag actual test gyud ko kung unsa gyud nga capacitance ang the best sa akong motor, so I started with 1000 UF/50V>>>naa may gamay fluctuations maski mid rev so I moved on to a 4700/50V>>>.ni stable na sa mid RPM pati sa high RPM, karon di pa gyud ko kontento ako pa gyung gigamitan ug isa pa ka 4700uf/50 for a total of 9400uf/50V>>>pariha ra man sa isa ka capacitor, DC noise level using a capacitor and a speaker mao ra sad so ni settle na lang ko sa 4700uf/50V, Now my project bike is done and running without a battery hehe but still a street legal bike complete with a headlight hi and low, LED signal lights, LED brake light, LED tail light, and a horn, minus the battery
![Cheesy](images/smilies/cheesy.gif)
and of course kung patay ang makina 3 seconds ra mu blink ang signal light...
Here`s a pic of my bike
Advantages - lighter bike total weight, lesser braking HP on the alternator kay always @ full charge ra ang capacitor kay dali ra man kaayo mapuno ug charge so more power on the wheels, less braking HP on the alternator itself...
Buttomline is I think on my opinion a 4700uf/50V can do the same voltage stabilization sa 4 pcs. 10,000uf/25V, it`s like a 5 gallon bucket nya ang gripo 1 GPM ra ang flow nya ang gamit pang flush ra sa CR nya karon gamitan ug 20 gallon bucket nya the same 1 GPM ang faucet flow nya para ra gihapon pang flush sa CR di ba bulky? not to mention the cost of each capacitor and most of all PUBLIC SAFETY...if ever mubuto nya gadagan nya marattle ang rider...(ayaw lang sad tawn simba ko palayo)
![pray](http://www.planetsmilies.com/smilies/innocent/innocent0001.gif)