Cebu Bantam Chicken Breeders Association Inc. (CBCBAI)

[tarantado07]

---

^: nice breeding bai..

[Janroe]

@ALL

helooooo mga amigo nako!

i am glad to anounce that this coming sunday april 29 2010 @ cbcbai office at exactly 3:00pm, we will be having another meeting for the discussion of some important things:

the meeting includes the ff:

discussion on major agendas
tour de tangkal if possible (maong sau2x pra dli bitin ang laag)
laugh trip (by sir kyoshero) hehehehe

attendance (WELCOME PUD MO JOIN ANG MGA HILIG UG BANTAMS EVEN THOUGH WLA MOY BANTAMS ARON PUD MAGILHANAY TANG TANAN):


1.janroe

[jdjd]

@ALL

helooooo mga amigo nako!

i am glad to anounce that this coming sunday april 29 2010 @ cbcbai office at exactly 3:00pm, we will be having another meeting for the discussion of some important things:

the meeting includes the ff:

discussion on major agendas
tour de tangkal if possible (maong sau2x pra dli bitin ang laag)
laugh trip (by sir kyoshero) hehehehe

attendance (WELCOME PUD MO JOIN ANG MGA HILIG UG BANTAMS EVEN THOUGH WLA MOY BANTAMS ARON PUD MAGILHANAY TANG TANAN):


1.janroe
2.jdjd

[tarantado07]

@kyoshero: bai pic sa ako bantam, 1 yr ago na ni nga pic.

[kyoshero]

@kyoshero: bai pic sa ako bantam, 1 yr ago na ni nga pic.

cross breed nmn ni bai, nindot pod

[kyoshero]

How to Hatch Chicken Eggs in a Incubator

It is important that before you put any eggs into an incubator, which you first make sure that, you have plugged it in and have ascertained that the temperature remains between 99.5 and 103 degrees. Once that is done you can now go ahead and place the eggs into the incubator. If you are going to have to turn the eggs by hand then it is advisable that you put a marker on each egg, such as a cross on one side and a circle on the opposite, because turning the eggs is important. You will need to do so as least three times a day.

If you fail to turn the eggs for some or other reason you will end up with either deformed chickens or none of the eggs will hatch at all. Another important feature of the incubator is that there must be adequate moisture inside it at all times. This does not need to be a problem, as simply placing a dish with water inside it in the incubator will take care of the moisture level quite adequately.

Just because you have decided to incubate the eggs does not mean that you will succeed in having ever egg hatching. Some eggs do not hatch, especially if they are cracked or damaged in some way. These develop odors and should be removed from the incubator. Once the egg has been in the incubator for two or three days, you can determine if there is an embryo by holding the egg up to a candle or other light source.

Humidity is extremely important when hatching chicken eggs in an incubator. Within an egg is a tiny air bubble that forms and this air bubble are dependent upon the humidity of the air. The more fluid that is lost the faster the bubble will grow. By maintaining the correct humidity in the incubator the bubble is prevented from growing to such an enlarged state that the fluids that are essential to the final growth of the embryos are lost. If the bubble is too large because the humidity has been excessive, the chick may not be able to reach the bubble, meaning that it will not be able to break through the membrane wall in order to pick his way around the shell and breaking the bubble off. Instead the chick will break through the shell in such a way that the fluids from underneath the bubble can then drown him.

If humidity as been too low, the bubble will be too big and the fluids under it will have dried up. This may result in the embryo being deformed of the chick could find itself stuck to the shell, desperately trying to dislodge it. After a couple of hours and chick that is stuck can be relieved by removing the top of the shell.

Eggs that are not in the normal position can cause the embryo to be disoriented within the shell, and develop in such a way that the head is at the narrow end. In that position, the chick is likely to drown.

Also, as mentioned above, eggs must be turned regularly so that they hatch. It is essential in the early stages of development but not so in the last days of incubation, when the chick is preparing to hatch. It is important that when you decide to incubate chicks that you understand that the success of the venture will depend largely on proper care.

Unsatisfactory results are usually caused because the temperature was not controlled properly resulting in a humidity level that was either too high or too low. But as mentioned, egg turning, ventilation and sanitation all play a part in the successful incubation of your chicken eggs.


Part I Chicken Egg Hatchability Problems


What Problems you may find in hatching chicken eggs

There are a number of problems that can arise for the hatchability of eggs, though they will typically be problems with the hatchery, the handling of the eggs, or the breeder flock. Identifying these problems quickly is essential, and requires the cooperation of hatchery, egg handling, and breeder farm personnel. When working to identify the hatchability problems that may be occurring, detailed and accurate records are essential. Every piece of information that can be obtained will help you locate and resolve any issues. Here are some general issues you may encounter, and their potential causes.

Problem: Infertile eggs with no blood and a small, white germinal disc that, when candled, show clear.

Causes: There are a number of things that can cause this problem, many of which can be easy to solve, some of which are unfortunately beyond control. Some examples include extreme weather conditions, inadequate lighting, and inadequate floor space. You should also check the breeder flock for problems such as parasites, feet and leg problems, excess body weight, or breeders which are too young or too old. You will also need to check for disease in the breeder flock. Signs of this may include rough, misshapen, or thin-shelled eggs. Exposure to certain drugs, pesticides, toxins or mycotoxins can also cause the issue, as can nutritional deficiencies. Also ensure that proper artificial insemination procedures are being employed, if artificial insemination is being used.

Problem: Fertile eggs that have no blood, have a germinal disc which appears enlarged, and which candle clear may be referred to as "blastoderm without embryo."

Causes: This is another issue that can be caused by breeders that are too young or too old, a disease in the flock, or exposure to drugs, pesticides, etc. However, many other causes of this problem are related to handling. These can include the eggs being stored too long, being held under improper conditions, washing the eggs at too high a temperature, fumigating incorrectly, or being jarred or exposed to sudden sharp changes in temperature during transport.

Problem: Eggs that, when candled, show clear, containing a blood ring or an embryo which died within three days of incubation.

Causes: This issue has many of the same causes as the previous issue. However, other causes may include inbreeding and nutrient deficiencies.

Problem: Embryos that have died within three to six days of incubation, an embryo on its left side, with a yolk sac circulatory system and no egg tooth.

Causes: Sharing many causes with the blastoderm without embryo, this problem has the additional potential causes of a lack of proper ventilation, improper turning, or vitamin deficiencies.

Problem: Embryos that have

died within seven to seventeen days of incubation, each with an egg tooth, feathers/feather follicles, and toenails.

Causes: With this issue, it's important to check incubator conditions. There may be a problem with the temperature, humidity, turning, and/or ventilation. This problem can also be a sign of contamination, nutrient deficiencies, or lethal genes.

Problem: Embryos that have died past eighteen days of incubation.

Causes: Incubator conditions can again be an issue, as can contamination, particularly from molds. Improper fumigation techniques, transfer temperatures, handling of hatcher can also be a factor. There could be an issue with shell quality, or a broken shell.

Part II Problems with Hatching Chicken Eggs

A number of specific issues may arise that can cause chicken egg hatchability problems. Below are some potential problems and pointers on correcting them.

Problem: An embryo that's full-term and not pipped, with a yolk sac that's large, possibly with residual albumen and/or not enclosed by the abdominal wall.

Causes: This issue can be caused by not being turned enough, diseases in the breeder flock, heredity, nutrient deficiencies, improper humidity and/or temperatures, and from being stored too long.

Problem: A dead embryo that's full-term and pipped.

Causes: Improper temperature, ventilation, and/or humidity, nutrient deficiencies, diseases in the breeder flock, not being turned enough, poor handling during transfer, or being stored too long.

Problem: An embryo that's alive or dead, with a shell that's partially pipped.

Causes: This problem shares many of the above causes, but can also be causes by excessive fumigation, or the eggs being set with the small end up rather than down.

Problem: Chicks hatching early; thin and noisy.

Causes: Improper temperature and/or humidity, small eggs, or simply differences between breeds.

Problem: Chicks hatching late.

Causes: This can be caused by large eggs, being stored for too long, old breeders, inbreeding, weak embryos, or incubators being too cold or too humid.

Problem: Slow, prolonged hatching.

Causes: This can be a sign of a number of problems in the incubator, such as a mix of eggs stored for different lengths of time, a mix of eggs from young and old breeders, a mix of large and small eggs, hot or cold spots, or improper overall temperature. There may also be a ventilation issue. Also check that eggs are being handled properly.

Problem: Inconsistent hatch or chick quality in the trays.

Causes: As with the above issue, this can be affected by the mix of eggs. It can also be indicative of disease in one or more of the breeder flocks, or variation in egg storage procedures.

Problem: Chicks that are sticky or smeared with albumen.

Causes: Low incubation temperature, high humidity, improper turning, or old and/or very large eggs.

Problem: Chicks stuck in shell or with shell fragments stuck to them.

Causes: Incorrect humidity levels, improper turning, or cracked/bad shells.

Problem: Premature hatching; bloody navels.

Causes: This problem is caused by temperatures in the incubator or hatcher that are too high.

Problem: Exploders

Causes: This issue is frequently caused by unclean conditions, all the way from the next to handling and storage.

Problem: Malformations, crooked toes, spraddled legs, short and/or wiry down.

Causes: These can all be caused by improper temperature in the incubator and nutritional deficiencies.

Problem: A crossed or twisted beak.

Causes: This is a hereditary issue.

Problem: Exposed brain, missing eye or eyes, or other eye problems.

Causes: This can be caused by temperature in the incubator being too high, and/or oxygen level being too low during days one through three.

Problem: Short or missing beak or other face abnormalities.

Causes: This can result from incubator temperature being too high, heredity, or by a niacin deficiency..

Part III of Chicken Egg Hatchability Problems

Here is how you can avoid Hatching Problems

Thousands of backyard hobby farmers raise chickens. Chickens are fun and interesting to have in your back yard, plus they are extremely easy to care for. One of the most fun parts of raising chickens is allowing them to set on their eggs. However, it's not always possible for your chickens to hatch their own young and even hens that are good setters can be inconsistent. There is always a place for a chicken incubator when you raise chicks. How does a chicken incubator work and what type is ideal for your particular setup? It's not hard to make a decision when you understand the different features are modern incubators.

Types of Incubators

There are two main categories of chicken incubators- forced-air and still-air models. In general, forced-air incubators are used in larger, commercial settings, where anywhere from several dozen to several hundred eggs are hatched at once. These models allow hatchery staff to place the eggs and take a hands-off approach, with little to no intervention needed until the chicks hatch. These incubators are large and quite expensive to purchase and operate. They are prohibitive for most individual or family hatching situations, though the smallest model may be affordable for a moderately sized family run operation. Still-air incubators are the most common for home users. These come in various sizes and hold anywhere from a handful, to several dozens eggs. Because air movement isn't automatically regulated by the incubator, a more hands-on approach is needed to successfully hatch the eggs. These are also quite affordable, with the most frugal options being available for well under 100.

Parts of an Incubator

The parts of an incubator will depend on the particular model, as well as the investment that was initially made. More expensive incubators leave fewer factors up to chance, but you pay for those features. A basic incubator will feature an egg tray, to hold the fertilized eggs. You will also probably find a temperature regulating system that allows the eggs to be held at the ideal temperature. A cover is needed to regulate the internal air, as well as keep the humidity levels at the optimum level. Most incubators also have a vent system to make adjustments as needed.

For those that want to look at systems that are bit more foolproof, there are several features that are worth a little bit of added cost. First, it's important to realize that your eggs will need to be turned several times a day. If an egg is allowed to stay in a certain position for too long, the growing embryo can adhere to the egg shell, causing the chick to die or hatch incorrectly. If your incubator doesn't include a turning system, you will need to manually turn the eggs at least three times a day. You also may find a thermostat regulated system will greatly increase your hatching rates, as the proper temperature and humidity levels will be maintain automatically.

Increasing Your Success

While the basic function of the incubator will go a long way to determining how many chicks you will hatch, it's also crucial to prepare your eggs properly. If an egg isn't fertile in the first place, there is no chance of getting a healthy baby chick, so be sure that your ratios of hens to roosters is sufficient and your flock is healthy. You also need to store your eggs in a cool place, with the smaller end down, until you have enough eggs to fill your incubator. In addition, as you become more familiar with how your incubator works, you will become more in tune with the best ways to increase your hatching success.

[barry_33]

musta mga bai....mayo ta maka attend ko ani..

@janroe
bai janroe thursday man na ang april 29?...dili sunday...basi april 25....pls confirm sa sched....hehehehe...

[Janroe]

musta mga bai....mayo ta maka attend ko ani..

@janroe
bai janroe thursday man na ang april 29?...dili sunday...basi april 25....pls confirm sa sched....hehehehe...

ahw oo diay sir barry....tnx sa paginform nako......nalipat ko sa date its 25 diay guys! ang 29 kay hatching sa eggs

musta nman sir barry mayta makajoin ka sa meeting kay gmingaw naming tanan nmu wahehehehehe

[Janroe]

@kyoshero

grabeh sa info about hatching eggs masters......your the man!

ako jud gi basa kay informative kaau ang post

[kyoshero]

@kyoshero

grabeh sa info about hatching eggs masters......your the man!

ako jud gi basa kay informative kaau ang post

bai janroe pwdi ma hibaw-an mng email?, plihug nia ko bai