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  1. #981
    Elite Member wakan's Avatar
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    Wakan 2 here:

    All this fuss about the name and being an active member is beginning to make all the point of this organization ambiguous..as in, wa na klaru.

    @hydrozam: please don't lose hope, the expo went well. what'm impt. is that we had fun.

    And that should be the whole point of this CUTE club. TO HAVE FUN! -- TURTLE LOVERS ENJOYING THEIR PETS AND THE COMPANY OF OTHER ENTHUSIASTS!

    United or Ultimate..pwede pud Unlimited, Undefeated, or whatever word that starts with 'U' you can think of which you think is good will do..it does not really matter!

    because whatever that U stands for The turtles CANNOT Understand it all! and it's suppose to be all about them, the turtles! not about us all.

    anyways, im just saying..we should be having fun. FUN! FUN!

  2. #982
    Elite Member wakan's Avatar
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    by the way.. the message was not directed to you hydrozam..kato lang one line. tha rest is for all the rest of us.

    Ana jud ng starters pa, daghan pagsulay..MATIRA LANG ANG MATIBAY. =)

    so again, just have fun everyone!

  3. #983
    Quote Originally Posted by 0ptimusPrim3 View Post
    what about adding the word "tortoise" for the name of the group?

    TATU = turtles and tortoise united
    TATO = turtles and tortoise org
    TATA = turtles and tortoise association
    oh i like the sound of the 1st one.. ^^

  4. #984
    Red Ear Slider
    ->reference/source: Redearslider.com :: All about Red Ear Sliders and the Turtle Talk forum (ultimate source of RES information), Wikipedia, DK Images Search


    Scientific Name: Trachemys scripta elegans formerly classified as Chrysemys scripta elegans
    Common Name: Red Ear Slider (US), Red Ear Terrapin (UK)
    Local Name: Green Turtle (erroneous name since it refers to a sea turtle species)
    Habitat: Mississippi River down to the Gulf of Mexico
    Danger to Human Health: Possible carrier of salmonella bacteria
    Ave. Life Span: 40yrs (Captive/Pet) 20yrs(Wild)
    Physical Description:
    Red Ear Sliders are very recognizable. Their signature red (or orange - yellow) stripe starts at the end of their eyes and extends to cover their ear area. Their carapace (top shell) is nicely rounded and smooth and has a black and yellow line pattern. Their plastron (bottom shell) is also smooth and is yellow with a distinct and unique pattern. Hatchlings start with a very bright green carapace that is slightly pliable (soft) and adults have a dark green carapace. As RES age, the patterns become less visible when the carapace becomes darker and the red ear area likely fades.


    Their skin has a green and yellow stripe pattern. Females are physically larger than males. However, males have much longer claws/nails as well as a longer and thicker tail. Despite their sharpness and length, it should never be necessary to cut or trim claws. Males have long front claws that are ritually used during courtship or in a territorial confrontation. The claws of captive RES are sharp and can easily scratch skin. The cloaca on a female is closer to the shell whereas a male, who has a longer and thicker tail, has it further away.


    The Straight Carapace Length (SCL) is used to properly measure a RES. To obtain this measurement, you stretch a line between the front of the shell and the back, ignoring the curvature of the carapace.

    Hatchlings SCL=approx. 1"
    Yearling (more than 1 year) SCL=around 2-3.5”.
    S3xually mature SCL= around 4"(Male) ; about 5" (Female).
    Ave. Adult SCL= 7-10" (Male) ; 10-13" (Female)
    Note: Size cannot reliably indicate age.
    Last edited by gaevwa; 02-27-2010 at 11:59 PM.

  5. #985
    hay'zzz...pwede dili nato ipadako ang issue...

    unsa man jud diay ang main prob..?? can we trace the root cause of the problem so that we can have the best solution...& guy'zzz can we please be open minded...

    I think, everyone is just sharing their own opinions & feelings...& we should respect that... all we need to do is to listen, understand & compromise...



  6. #986
    cont. of Red Ear Slider article:

    Basic Care
    Tank size is the first critical issue you will have to deal with. Rule of the thumb is, as a minimum, 10 gallons of tank per each inch of SCL. Example: RES with 2" SCL will require 20Gal of tank volume. (2"x10Gal per inch=20Gal.) Furthermore, if you have more than one RES, multiply the resulting volume with the number of RES you are keeping together. Example, you have two RES with 2"SCL, you will need 40Gal tan (20Gal. x 2 RES)

    Another popular method of determining tank size is Tank Length =4xSCL (Length), Tank Width = 2xSCW (Width), and Tank Depth = 1.5xSCW (Width).

    Quality filtration will not only help keep a healthier environment for your slider, but it will make cleaning less intensive. General rule here is to use 3x capacity filter for the particular tank volume. For example, if your tank is 20 Gal., you will need a filter rated for 60Gal. tank.

    The required Basking area allows for your turtle to dry off and warm up. A heat lamp positioned above the tank will be necessary to raise temperatures an additional 10F. This is also a good spot to add special UVB lighting and direct it over the basking area. UVB rays allow your turtle to produce vitamin D3 which enables the metabolization of dietary calcium. Unobstructed sunlight is the best source of UVB and warmth. If you intend to keep a slider in an outdoor habitat, it will not be necessary to provide artificial UV rays if there is ample sunlight reaching the basking area.

  7. #987
    cont. of Red Ear Slider article:

    Basic Nutrition
    Fresh vegetables should always be offered, regardless if your RES shows interest in them. The right combination of vegetables can offer a balance of calcium and vitamins A and K. Aquatic plants are also beneficial, especially since it would be similar to what wild RES consume. Older RES especially should consume more vegetables and aquatic plants. Expect an adult to have a diet that is about 75% plant based. Be aware that there are some vegetables that have a poor calcium / phosphorus ratio and fruits are considered to be a small and rare treat. A lack of vegetables may also cause a Vitamin K deficiency. This shortage disrupts intestinal bacteria and may reveal itself with a bleeding mouth.

    Collards and other plants from the Brassica group may also inhibit iodine absorption, resulting in goiters. Though that is not completely proven, they are considered to be acceptable in small amounts. Adding kelp, which is rich in iodine, is believed to counteract any potential effects. A high-purine diet can cause high levels of uric acid. This presence can lead to gout.

    Beneficial and recommended (Staple foods):
    ■Dandelion leaves
    ■Green Leaf lettuce
    ■Red Leaf lettuce
    ■Turnip greens (leaves only)
    ■Amazon Swords
    ■Anacharis*
    ■Duckweed*
    ■Frogbit
    ■Hornwort
    ■Nasturtium
    ■Pondweed
    ■Water Fern*
    ■Water Hyacinth*
    ■Water Lettuce
    ■Water Lily*
    ■Water Milfoil
    ■Water Starwort

    Moderate (Limited usage):
    ■Carrots
    ■Endives, Escarole, Chicory
    ■Green bean
    ■Kale
    ■Pumpkin
    ■Romaine lettuce
    ■Squash
    ■Sweet potato
    ■Zucchini
    ■Cantaloupe / Melon (rind optional)
    ■Mango
    ■Papaya
    ■Prickly pear pads, fruit

    Use rarely (Not a staple)
    These items have little benefit compared to other options.
    ■Collards (various)
    ■Iceberg lettuce
    ■Mustard greens
    ■Red pepper
    ■Tomato
    ■Apple (shredded)
    ■Banana
    ■Blackberry
    ■Blueberry
    ■Citrus (various)
    ■Grape
    ■Peach - Nectarine (pits removed)
    ■Pear (various)
    ■Plum - Cherry (pits removed)
    ■Strawberry
    ■Watermelon

    Not recommended (Medium and high-risk foods)
    These vegetables provide little or no benefit and can be harmful for RES in excessive quantities and in unbalanced diets. These items are questionable and may contain goitrogenic compounds, large concentrations of oxalic and/or phosphorus. Most of these are part of the Brassica and Chenopodiacea groups.
    ■Cabbage
    ■Celery
    ■Chard
    ■Chives
    ■Mushroom
    ■Parsley
    ■Peas
    ■Rhubarb
    ■Spinach
    ■Amaranth
    ■Beet greens
    ■Bok Choi / Bok Choy
    ■Broccoli
    ■Brussel sprouts

    Sliders are very omnivorous and will more than gladly take live prey. The variety of prey you can offer includes various insects, snails, small fish and worms. Offering live prey can be exciting for both the keeper and turtle. Hatchling will start as carnivore with very little plant food but will gradually become more herbivore as it matures. Fish may contain thiaminase, an enzyme that destroys Vitamin B1 (thiamin). Shellfish may contain bacteria that causes shell rot and may be high in purines. High protien foods may also cause pyramiding of shell.

    Moderate (Limited usage)
    ■Apple snail
    ■Pond snail
    ■Feeder fish
    ■Guppies
    ■Rosy red minnows
    ■Crickets (Pinhead) (preferably gut-loaded or dusted)
    ■Earthworms
    ■Silkworms
    ■Bloodworms

    Use rarely (Not a staple)
    ■Mosquito larvae
    ■Ghost shrimp
    ■Brine shrimp
    ■Waxworms
    ■Brine shrimp
    ■Feeder fish (Frozen)
    ■Gammarus (Shrimp)
    ■Krill (Shrimp-like invertebrate)
    ■Boiled egg whites
    ■Boiled white chicken, turkey meat
    ■Salmon (Canned – in water)
    ■Tuna fish (Canned – in water)

    Not recommended (Medium and high-risk foods)
    ■Crayfish
    ■Goldfish
    ■Mealworms
    ■Slugs
    ■Tubifex worms
    ■Snails (De-shelled)
    ■Anchovies, Herring, Mackerel, Sardines
    ■Beef, hamburger meat (cooked or raw)
    ■Bread, grain, pasta
    ■Cat or dog food
    ■Deli meats
    ■Eggshells (crushed or powdered)
    ■Pinkies - Mice
    ■Pork (cooked or raw)
    ■Poultry – Chicken, Turkey (raw)
    ■Scallops
    ■Shellfish, Shrimp
    Last edited by gaevwa; 02-28-2010 at 01:23 AM.

  8. #988
    cont. of Red Ear Slider article:

    Basic Health:

    Be alert and recognize signs that might require immediate medical care. Red Ear Sliders may exhibit unusual behavior and develop a wide range of illnesses. Should you expect an illness, the immediate action you can take as a basic measure in most cases is to increase air and basking and water temperatures about 5-10 degrees F (water is already expected to be around 78F for hatchlings and around 75F for older turtles). Their bodies, including their immune systems, will be more active and more efficient with the increased heat. If your turtle is having difficulty swimming, you must make certain there is neither danger of drowning nor dehydration.

    Major Illnesses and Injuries:
    Drowning

    Metabolic Bone Disease / Soft Shell Metabolic bone disease (MBD), also known as soft shell syndrome, should be of serious concern to new turtle keepers and for those with young RES. It is a serious but preventable disease brought on by deficiencies of calcium and/or vitamin D3. Feed turtle with cuttle bone and provide appropriate basking.

    Respiratory Infections (RI) Respiratory infections (RI) are common and deadly illnesses that affect many captive turtles. It is contagious. There are varying degrees of RI, including pneumonia, and the symptoms may also differ. The most obvious symptom that can signal RI is if a RES is listing which refers to swimming in an irregular manner, such as swimming in circles, unevenly or lopsided and even swimming upside down. Listing is caused by fluid in the lungs; more specifically, if fluid exists in one lung or there is more fluid in one lung than the other. Your RES requires immediate veterinary assistance if they exhibit this symptom.
    There are other possible symptoms that can signal RI, which includes breathing difficulties, coughing, sneezing, open mouth, yawning, wheezing, lethargy, loss of appetite, mucus from the nose (runny) or mouth and bubbling at the nose and mouth. If your RES exhibits any of these symptoms, then raising temperatures, quarantine and a water change would be the immediate actions to take.

    Septicemia is a condition where there is a bacterial presence in the blood. It is essentially blood poisoning, a serious and life-threatening infection that requires immediate emergency care.

    Shell RotShell ulceration can form when there is an injury to the shell in which the damaged area becomes infected. If left untreated or improperly cared for, this lesion could be penetrated and lead to a number of diseases such as fungal and bacterial infections and septicemia.


    Trauma If your turtle suffers any sudden trauma such as a fall, drop or animal attack, it will need to be quickly examined to measure the extent of any injuries. There may be a cracked shell, broken bones or cuts. If another animal, such as a dog or raccoon has bitten your turtle then it must be well cleaned, separated and quarantined from other turtles. If the turtle sustained any injuries, then you should take him to a vet for inspection and possibly antibiotic treatment.

    Pyramiding Overfeeding leads to an unhealthy large intake of protein and fat. This intake leads to rapid growth, which can cause shell pyramiding. Too much protein can also cause internal organ damage like kidney failure. The scutes on the carapace are not smooth as they should be and appear in a pyramid shape. There are varying degrees of severity, and the areas between scutes may not have their normal strength.
    Last edited by gaevwa; 02-28-2010 at 01:19 AM.

  9. #989
    cont. of Red Ear Slider article:

    --reserved page for new article of red ear slider..

    Thanks guys!

  10. #990
    uyyyy! sakpan! online diay ka diri robot? ^^

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