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  1. #101

    Courtesy of moy1moy1:
    -> https://www.istorya.net/forums/scienc...ine_soefa.html

    Fauna #62: Red lionfish



    Com.name: lionfish
    Sci.name: Pterois volitans
    Classification: Fish
    Family: scorpionfish
    Location/Origin:
    Indian and western Pacific Oceans.
    Description:
    Red lionfish are clad in white stripes alternated with red, maroon, or brown. Adults can grow as large as 17 inches (43 cm) in length while juveniles may be shorter than 1 inch. The fish have fleshy tentacles which protrude from both above the eyes and below the mouth. The pectoral fin is present in a distinctive fan-like shape, and dorsal spines are long and separated. Every spine of the lionfish is venomous, and while no fatalities due to lionfish stings have been reported, their venom is considered to be extremely painful.
    Reference:
    Red lionfish - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  2. #102
    Courtesy of moy1moy1:
    -> https://www.istorya.net/forums/scienc...ine_soefa.html

    Fauna #63: Clear-fin lionfish



    Com.name: lionfish
    Sci.name: Pterois radiata
    Classification: fish
    Family: scorpionfish
    Location/Origin:
    Lives in the Indian and western Pacific oceans
    Description:
    It is the only lionfish species with blank spines. But it can also be recognized by the pair of horizontal white stripes on its tail.
    Reference:
    Clearfin lionfish - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  3. #103
    Courtesy of moy1moy1:
    -> https://www.istorya.net/forums/scienc...ine_soefa.html

    Fauna #64: Yellow clown goby



    Com.name: yellow clown goby
    Sci.name: Gobiodon okinawae
    Classification:fish
    Family: goby
    Location/Origin:
    native to the western Pacific from southern Japan to the southern reaches of the Great Barrier Reef.
    Description:
    As the name implies, they are bright yellow in color, save for a whitish patch on each cheek. Equally bright as their coloration is their personality; they are valued additions to reef aquaria, with a reputation for being friendly and entertaining. G. okinawae have a generally fusiform shape with seven dorsal spines, ten soft dorsal rays, one anal spine, and nine anal soft rays. At maturity they can reach a length of 3.5 cm.
    Another species, Gobiodon citrinus, the citrus goby, has a similar appearance to Gobiodon okinawae. G. okinawae, however, lacks the requisite blue and white facial markings of G. citrinus. These fish are not generally aggressive, though they can actively protect their territory against their own kind. Their primary defense against predators is a poisonous, bitter mucus on their skin that makes them unpalatable. The yellow clown goby inhabits the coral reefs of sheltered lagoons. Unlike most gobies, which are burrowers,Gobiodon sp. roost in the outer branches of acropora(staghorn) corals, in groups of five to fifteen individuals.
    Reference:
    Yellow clown goby - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  4. #104
    Courtesy of moy1moy1:
    -> https://www.istorya.net/forums/scienc...ine_soefa.html (Philippine Species of Endemic Fauna •(Philippine_SoEFa)•)

    Fauna #65: Fire Fish



    Com.name: Fire Goby, Fire Fish, Fire Dartfish, or Red Fire Goby
    Sci.name: nemateleotris magnifica
    Classification: fish
    Family: Dartfish
    Location/Origin:
    This fish is most commonly found near the substrate of the upper reef in tropical marine waters. These waters include the Indo-Pacific, Central Pacific, east African waters, Ryukyu Islands, Japan, New Caledonia, and Pitcairn Islands.
    Description:
    They usually have a bright yellow head, merging into a white body, gradually shading into a red-orange tail. Their dorsal fins are very long, and the fish flicks it back and forth. This is used as a signal to conspecifics. As a full grown adult, it reaches a maximum length of 9 centimeters (3 in). Adults occupy sandy burrows alone or in pairs, while the juveniles live in small groups. These fish are monogamous.[1] They will retreat to burrows if threatened. These fish are often kept in the aquarium. This fish is extremely easily frightened, so ample hiding places, a lack of other boisterous species, and a well-fitting hood to prevent this fish's escape are recommended. The fish should be kept alone or in pairs to reduce fighting. This fish may need live food when first introduced, but can be adapted to frozen foods.
    Reference:
    Nemateleotris magnifica - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  5. #105
    unsaon pag kibaw if on what level ang light sa imung tank? can someone give the ratios very low, low, medium, high, very high? how many watts per gallon?

  6. #106

    Default Watts per Gallon

    Quote Originally Posted by harryboy06 View Post
    unsaon pag kibaw if on what level ang light sa imung tank? can someone give the ratios very low, low, medium, high, very high? how many watts per gallon?
    Excerpt from: Aquarium Plants - Info Pages

    When people talk about the levels of light it's the power and not the duration. All lights should be on for about 10-12 hours a day. 1-2 watts per gallon are normally considered low light condition, 2-3 w/g are medium lights, and above that are high lights. This assumes that the lights are "full spectrum" ones - the ones, which imitate the sun light the closest and are consumed by the plants the best (I believe this type of lights is the most appropriate both for terrestrial and aquatic plants). If your lights are not full-spectrum (light temperature in the range 5000-6500K) then you usually need more powerful bulbs than described above.

    Most fluorescent bulbs, sold in the pet shops for freshwater aquaria, are full-spectrum.

    Bulbs are usually mounted in a hood of the tank therefore the distance from the lights to the plants is determined by the height of the aquarium. Generally, the taller the tank the higher levels of lights are required.

    Other commonly used light categorization (approximately 1.5 watt/gallon - low light, 2.5-3 - medium lights, above 4 - high lights) there is another tendency: the larger tanks generally need less light to qualify for these categories. Such, 1 watt per gallon would probably qualify as a low light set up for your tank; 0.5 watt per gallon would be fine for a 100 gallon tank or so, etc.

  7. #107
    C.I.A. moy1moy1's Avatar
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    hehehe mastera jud nimu sir uist, hehehe

    question:

    mabuhi bah ang java moss sa hi-ph water (enough 4 a neon tetra 2 survive-kind of ph) unya less light? (nag agad ra sa light sa bedroom). Para ni sakun fire bellies

  8. #108
    Quote Originally Posted by moy1moy1 View Post
    hehehe mastera jud nimu sir uist, hehehe

    question:

    mabuhi bah ang java moss sa hi-ph water (enough 4 a neon tetra 2 survive-kind of ph) unya less light? (nag agad ra sa light sa bedroom). Para ni sakun fire bellies
    sa akong experience bai, buhi ra jud gihapon ang java moss maski low light.. and hardy kining java moss.. pero just to make sure, butangi lang og lamp..maski 3W light lang.. pareho sa ako pico tank set up..(kita na ka ato?) dili ba mag-basking kining newts? the lamp is more useful also if mag-basking sila..

  9. #109
    Fauna #66: False Harlequin Rasbora

    Common name: Lambchop Rasbora, Espei Rasbora, Slim Harlequin Rasbora, False Harlequin Rasbora, Espe’s Rasbora
    Scientific name: Trigonostigma espei
    Synonyms: Rasbora espei, Rasbora heteromorpha espei
    Size: 4-5 cm / 1.8-2 inches
    pH: 5-7
    Temperature: 73 – 82 °F (23 – 28 °C)
    Lifespan: 3-5 years
    Details:
    The Lambchop rasbora or False harlequin rasbora is a small very friendly schooling fish perfect for any planted community aquarium with other friendly species. They roam the aquarium in loose schools without bothering any of the other aquarium inhabitants. It is a good companion to keep with small shrimp species. The Lambchop rasbora should not be kept with fast swimming or aggressive fish as this can cause them to become very timid.

    The Lambchop rasbora originates from south East Asia where it is mainly found in Cambodia and Thailand.

    This species is one of three species often confused with each other and sold under the wrong names. This situation is made even more confusing by the fact that the species share certain common names. The other two species are the Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) and the Glowlight Rasbora (Trigonostigma hengeli). Glowlight Rasbora and Lambchop Rasbora are both sold as False harlequin rasbora. It is possible to tell the species apart if you look closely. The Harlequin rasbora is higher (stalkier) than the other two species. It has a pink to bright red colour. The black spot is located close to the triangle on the back of the body and the spot as a blue hue to it. The Harlequin rasbora also has a larger triangle then the other two species. The Lambchop rasbora has a bronze pink colour. The Glowlight rasbora is butter coloured and has a faint orange line above its black spot. This line is not present in the Lambchop rasbora.

    Aquarium & Care
    The Lambchop rasbora is very hardy compared to other rasbora species and can be kept without much pampering as long as their basic requirements are met. Below you will find information on some conditions that you should try to meet to make you Lambchop rasboras feel more at home and make them show their best side.

    The aquarium should where you keep Lambchop rasboras should not be smaller then 10 gallon (50 L). Lambchop rasbora is best kept in a densely planted aquarium that contains both fine leafed and broad leafed plants. Dark substrate is to be preferred as this make the fish show a more vibrant red color, but any substrate will do. Make sure there are shaded areas in the aquarium where the fish can seek refuge from the light when resting. Roots and bogwood are recommended as it helps maintain suitable water conditions for this species but are not necessary if you manually maintain soft acidic water conditions.

    Lambchop rasboras should always be kept in schools and will do very poorly if kept alone or in groups of less than 6-10 individuals. The more specimens the better, provided of course that your aquarium is large enough to house them.

    It is important to cover the aquarium well as Lambchop rasboras are excellent jumpers and tend to jump to get away from perceived dangers or simply because they are excited about something. If there is a hole for them to jump out of the tank through, you can be sure they will jump through it sooner or later.

    Feeding Lambchop Rasbora
    The Lambchop rasbora is easy to feed as they are omnivores and will accept most food types. They do not but large demands on the owner and the diet can be based around a high quality flake food. They should be offered a varied diet that contain not live food and vegetable
    matter such as blanched lettuce. They will accept all live food that is small enough to be eaten. A good varied diet is required for this fish to breed.

    Determining the Gender of Lambchop Rasbora
    There is no sure way to determine the gender of Lambchop Rasbora based on external characteristics. It canhowever be said that males often are more brightly colored and that females often have a fuller rounder bodies. This is however by no mean certain indicators that a fish belongs to a certain gender. If you want to breed them you will have to use a school as broad stock to make sure that both genders are present.

    Breeding Lambchop Rasbora
    The Lambchop or False harlequin rasbora is usually rather hard to breed. It requires soft to very soft acidic water to breed. A suitable breeding aquarium can be setup by covering the bottom of a tank with two layers of marbles and then adding a couple of plants to the tank. They use broad leafed plants to deposit their eggs. The adult fish should be removed from the tank once spawning is completed to protect the egg and fry.

    You will need to condition you Lambchop rasboras by feeding them live food a couple of weeks before you try to breed them. Dimming the light can help trigger spawning if needed.

    Lambchop Rasbora eggs and fry are very small and the fry can be hard to see with the naked eye. The fry need to be fed very small food such as infusorians and vinegar eels. After a while they will be large enough to accept crushed flake food and from this point on the fry are easy to raise.

    Source: False Harlequin Rasbora, Lambchop Rasbora, Trigonostigma espei

  10. #110
    @gaevwa: tnx for the info sir.. now i already know on what level on my lights are. i got 2.4w/g mu tubu rana ang HC dha noh? and ako gi gamit para co2 kai carbon plus na drops.. is that ok?

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