Courtesy of Persephone from RFC:
Fauna #31: Bengal dario, Scarlet badis
COMMON NAME - Bengal dario, Scarlet badis
SCIENTIFIC NAME - Dario dario formerly known as Badis bengalensis. Not be confused with their slightly larger cousins, blue badis, Badis badis badis
DISTRIBUTION - West Bengal, India
HABITAT- They are found in densely planted, relatively shallow areas along the banks of small streams.
SIZE - They max out at 1 to 2 centimeters (1/2 to 3/4 of an inch).
TANK - Due to their small size, these fish are perfect candidates for small office, kitchen, office, bedroom aquariums. A pair or a trio can be kept in a 5 gallon tank. However, I do recommend keeping more of them, in larger thanks - they aren't schooling fish, but they obviously enjoy living in a social environment. They are not highly active fish, preferring to just hover among the plants, but they do frequently exert little bursts of energy interacting with each other. They are highly inquisitive and intelligent, and will make use of any space given to them. Due to the fact that females are rarely imported, most badis tanks are likely to be male-only. They will not fight if given adequate ground space to establish their own territories; each male should be allotted about 3 gallons or 35 to 40 square inches of territory. If females are also present, there should be as many females as males. They don't seem to pair up, and the males are not particularly over-amorous with the females, but a single female can be pestered by the rowdy boys and so more is better. Each female will also need her own territory. If you're going with a species tank, you could keep 5 in a 10gallon tank; 7 in a 15 gallon tank, 10 in a 30 gallons tank etc.
They can be kept in a community tanks, but because of their small size and relative inactivity, they should not be kept with any fish big enough to eat them. So, gouramis and angelfish would be out of the question as tank mates.
TANK DECOR - Scarlet badis really enjoy heavy planting, including floating plants. Plants like spiral vals and amazon swords (of rosé variety, perhaps) are great for the background; pygmy chain swords and anubias make lovely mid- to fore-ground plants; java moss, guppy grass, moss balls and java Fern should be liberally used as these little fish enjoy them; and floating plants like penny wart and amazon frogbit are ideal for a bright green, cozy upper-level planting. Driftwood is fine to use particularly if it has lots of ins-and-outs, and Texas holey rock is ideal because the scarlet badis seem to really enjoy swimming in and out of the holes in the rock. Personally, I find a white or light beige sand substrate is the nicest against the vibrant red of the scarlet badis - just use some Malaysian trumpet snails to keep the sand from accumulating toxic gases.
DIET - Most Scarlet badis will turn their little fish noses up at flakes and pellets. Some can be weaned onto flake or slowly sinking pellets, but most will eat only frozen foods such as bloodworms, mosquito larvae, small daphnia, krill, small mysis shrimp, cyclops and brine shrimp. A rare, finicky few will refuse to eat anything but live food. Care should be taken to offer a variety of foods.
CHEMESTRY - Water conditions: Scarlet badis are pretty hardy fish, capable of thriving in many water conditions, providing that extremes, and extreme fluctuations, are avoided. They are most active and most colourful at about 76F, but will do fine in as warm as 79F. 6.5 pH, and moderately soft water is recommended.
Maintenance: Scarlet badis are not messy fish, but care should be taken to clean their water frequently, as they are sensitive to water quality. I recommend small weekly changes, such as 10% ever 5 days; 15% every 7 days or 20% every 10 days.
TANK ZONE - Scarlet badis will make use of any and all space they are given, and don't seem to have any particular preferred level in the tank. Each fish requires a certain amount of ground territory, but many will spend most of their time among the floating plants, or above bushy plants, or within bushy plants near the substrate. I have observed no preference.
TEMPERMENT - Not aggressive towards other species, or each other if they have adequate space.
ACTIVITY PEAK & PHOTOPERIOD - Scarlet badis are diurnal, so you will see them out and about during the day. They sleep soundly at night, on a leaf or within java moss or within floating plant roots. Photoperiod is not crucial, anywhere from 9 hours to 11 hours per day.
HARDINESS - A very easy fish to keep, if their diminutive size and clean water requirements are taken into consideration and respected.
PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION - Male scarlet badis are like little rubies. They are easily identified by their bright red stripes. The head and back is bright red, and there are 7 bright red stripes on the body, interspersed with pearly white strips. The fins are also bright red, lined with iridescent blue-white. The females are slightly smaller and much, much duller. Personally, I find them very attractive, but compared to the males they are plain (this is why they are rarely imported). The body and fins are a pearly-pink, with sometimes very faint traces of pinkish stripes running into the fins.
COUSINS - Scarlet badis were formerly thought to be a dwarf cichlid, but this has been proven untrue. They are in the family of perch-like fish, gouramis and bettas being their distant cousins.