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  1. #61

    Quote Originally Posted by chaleh View Post
    2stroke: Last nako sukod, bro, mga 34 km per liter man toh. Lahug-Balamban-Lahug ang byahe atoh.
    wow not bad 4 that monster bike. thanx
    maka huna2x man pod tag hunong gasto sa project bike nako. hehehehe

  2. #62
    planning on this bike or the motorstar Z-one

    ask lang ko

    how do i know that i am getting the latest model
    about ilisan ang bearing ug seals?
    unsa na seals sa front fork?

  3. #63
    nathanjohn: check sa front sa frame if naa nay reinforcement sa wishbone part. Adto sa FB page, bro, para kita ka sa pics. Ang seals and bearings kay sa wheel.

  4. #64
    Changes/additions done so far:
    1. wheel bearings - They have to be changed immediately. Dali ra mubigay ang stock. Change to NTN, SKF, Koyo, or any trusted brand. Beware kay lisod pangita ug orig. Akong "Koyo" nibigay dayon pag padung uli gikan sa pag taod sa shop.
    2. oil seals - Ilisi na lang para kaisa ra taod apil sa bearings. Basi pud ma-damage ang stock ig ilis sa bearings.
    3. frame repaint - Lihay sa taya kay dali ra mutaya puthawa ug di nimo sige trapohan. (Republic Powdercoat ko patrabaho. Not satisfied. Dali ra mapakpak)
    4. clutch cable - I replaced the stock with OEM clutch cable for Honda XR. Humok na. Very satisfied.
    5. intake manifold (head side) - Ni-crack perhaps due to vibration or unevenly tightened bolts (isolated case, haven't heard anyone with same experience)
    6. Replace/weld engine mount bracket - Ni-crack kay nipis ra ang metal. Issue is brought to the attention of MCX and is covered by warranty.

  5. #65
    have rouser 135 and planning to get this one kai dugay nako cgeg pangita ug enduro na motor pra 2nd na bike...lisod naman pangitaon ang serow karon kung naa pud perting mahala murag mga brand new na mga motor ug presyo...karaan naman unta hehe

  6. #66
    Quote Originally Posted by chaleh View Post
    Changes/additions done so far:
    1. wheel bearings - They have to be changed immediately. Dali ra mubigay ang stock. Change to NTN, SKF, Koyo, or any trusted brand. Beware kay lisod pangita ug orig. Akong "Koyo" nibigay dayon pag padung uli gikan sa pag taod sa shop.
    2. oil seals - Ilisi na lang para kaisa ra taod apil sa bearings. Basi pud ma-damage ang stock ig ilis sa bearings.
    3. frame repaint - Lihay sa taya kay dali ra mutaya puthawa ug di nimo sige trapohan. (Republic Powdercoat ko patrabaho. Not satisfied. Dali ra mapakpak)
    4. clutch cable - I replaced the stock with OEM clutch cable for Honda XR. Humok na. Very satisfied.
    5. intake manifold (head side) - Ni-crack perhaps due to vibration or unevenly tightened bolts (isolated case, haven't heard anyone with same experience)
    6. Replace/weld engine mount bracket - Ni-crack kay nipis ra ang metal. Issue is brought to the attention of MCX and is covered by warranty.

    noobi po sir chaleh unsa size sa wheel bearing....

  7. #67
    banono22: Pareha ra ta, bro. Hehe. Front bearing is 6202Z, rear is 6905Z. Duha ra sa front then upat sa rear. Ayaw palit ug fake, bro. Kasuway kog Koyo (kuno) wala abti ug one day!

  8. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by vailixi View Post
    have rouser 135 and planning to get this one kai dugay nako cgeg pangita ug enduro na motor pra 2nd na bike...lisod naman pangitaon ang serow karon kung naa pud perting mahala murag mga brand new na mga motor ug presyo...karaan naman unta hehe
    mag motard ka jid??

  9. #69
    yay.. nana pud mag ilis ug motor da..

  10. #70
    @chaleh salamat sa info bai..wala pa na daot akoa pero andam nako daan hehehe,,,asaka nakapalit handle bar...asa ka palit og accessories pam pa pogi bai?

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