Best dog training secrets

[sexy.rouge24]

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hala, ganahan ko


beh, ako i bookmark

[Palongkilang]

nice thread... keep it up.

na a pud unta mag open ug question & answer sa dog training. hehehe

[machine head]

Keep it coming... Thanks.

[ken sako]

hwat lang ta update ni TS...

[Happy Pet Cebu]

HOUSEBREAKING

70.Establish a schedule: The very first step
to housebreaking your puppy is to establish
a schedule. It is critical to stay as close to the
same times every day until your puppy has fully
understood the concept you are teaching him.The
tighter you remain on schedule, the faster the
puppy will develop a rhythm and internal time
clock for his own schedule.

71.Create a working schedule around the
rhythms of the household. Puppies
should be fed three times a day unless work
schedules prohibit. Start your schedule when the
household wakes, and begin with an immediate
elimination break. Once a puppy is awake he
won’t wait long to eliminate.

72.Write this schedule down and post it in
a prominent place. If more than one person
is caring for the puppy, make sure schedule
responsibilities are understood and followed by
all participating. A unified family can ensure the
success of your housebreaking venture!

Cue Words

73.Direction Cue. When going to the door,
choose a word like OUTSIDE to direct the
first part of her task. OUTSIDE will let her know
where you are going, and by using the next cue
word (the elimination cue word), she will link the
two words with the process.

74.OUTSIDE will become a question you
will later ask her if you suspect she may
need to go outside. If you’ve successfully linked
OUTSIDE with HURRY UP (or the elimination cue
word), she will quickly run to the door in answer
to your question if she needs an elimination
break.

75.Elimination Cue. Use another specific cue
like HURRY UP or POTTY to indicate that
you wish her to eliminate.This word can be linked
easily with the first potty break of the morning
since most puppies need to eliminate first thing
in the morning.
Puppy

76.Cue words can become gentle coaxes
when you know your puppy needs to
eliminate but is perhaps becoming distracted in
the yard. Repeating the cue HURRY UP in a coaxing
voice can refocus her on the job at hand.

77.Some people choose to pick one cue
word for urination and one for defecation.
You have to time the cue word with the
action quite a few times successfully so your
puppy can make the link between the action and
the words. Sometimes it’s easier to use one word
or phrase for both actions.

[Happy Pet Cebu]

THE HOUSEBREAKING CYCLE


Start the housebreaking cycle by bringing your
puppy out of the crate. Carry or walk your puppy
immediately outside. Using a leash, walk your
puppy over to the desired elimination area. Gently,
but encouragingly, repeat your cue word.
Once your puppy has eliminated, praise in a gentle
tone “Good potty,” and return inside the
house.
Wait only three to four minutes for your puppy
to eliminate. If it takes longer than this, she probably
does not need to eliminate or is distracted.
Return inside and wait five minutes and repeat
the process. (If your puppy tends to eliminate
indoors during this waiting period, crate her for a
few minutes or keep her on a short leash with you
to avoid these accidents.)
Once inside, offer breakfast and some water.
When your puppy finishes, take her outside for
another elimination break. In this morning routine,
your puppy should both urinate and defecate.
Puppy

[Happy Pet Cebu]

Feeding Time

78.When feeding your puppy, allow only
ten to fifteen minutes for eating. If your
puppy doesn’t eat the full meal, remove it and do
not feed again until the next scheduled feeding.
This will encourage a timely and efficient feeding
schedule. This, in turn, helps with a timely, rhythmic
elimination schedule.

79.If your puppy is wandering around during
mealtime, you may need to put her onleash
and restrict her motion around the kitchen
until she is finished. After the bowl is empty or time
is up, remove the bowl and do not feed your dog
again until the next scheduled feeding.

80.During feeding, pick a quiet area or time
to feed. Sometimes the daily activities in
one’s kitchen or living area will cause the puppy
to be unable to focus on eating. If your puppy
seems distracted and unable to concentrate on
the “job” of feeding, put her in her crate to eat.
Eliminating distractions will allow your puppy to
focus on the task at hand.

[Happy Pet Cebu]

Setbacks and Accidents in Housebreaking

81.Be prepared for setbacks! Puppies at the
age of eight to ten weeks will void themselves
completely when they eliminate. As they
age to between eleven and thirteen weeks,muscle
control of the bladder begins to develop. At this
stage, it is not uncommon for the puppy to eliminate
only a portion of their contents and then
become distracted by a leaf, noise, or their own
tail. The puppy will return inside and promptly
eliminate again. This is not a deliberate action,
just a lack of concentration. Practice puppy concentration
exercises and keep a keen eye to see if
your puppy is voiding completely.

82.What do you do if your puppy has an
accident? Be calm. (Yelling or otherwise
startling or scaring the puppy may teach him not
to eliminate in front of you.) Walk quickly over to
your puppy and say “NO” firmly. Pick up the puppy
and immediately take him to the desired elimination
area.

83.Do not rub your puppy’s nose in her accident.
This will cause her to lose trust in
you for doing such a distasteful act to her. She may
also think that you are displeased with the act
rather than the location of it.That may cause her to
not want to eliminate in front of you. This could
lead to her sneaking off and hiding to eliminate,
eliminating in her crate, or eating her own stool.

84.Thoroughly clean the accident area with
an odor neutralizer. Common cleaners
may take the smell from our noses but not your
puppy’s. If the scent remains, the puppy will
assume this area is appropriate for elimination.
Special Considerations of Housebreaking

85.Should people with jobs own dogs? Sure,
but remember that housebreaking a
young puppy without a midday elimination break
is more difficult on the both the puppy and owner
alike. The owner must allow (and provide space
for) more frequent accidents and an overall longer
process.

86.Hiring a dog-walking service to aid in
this developmental period is also a good
idea to help avoid long crating periods while your
puppy is young. This period in a dog’s life goes by
quickly and some allowances made early on can
yield an opportunity for better learning and a
wonderful relationship with your dog later.

87.At first, absorbent bedding will keep
accidents away from your puppy when
they are simply too young to “hold it” for extended
periods of time. Keeping them clean now will
stimulate their own ability to be clean later. Keep
a good schedule to aid in this cleanliness process.

88.In later stages of housebreaking (three
months on), avoid absorbent bedding. If
your puppy can eliminate and have the offending
material absorbed, he can push it off to one side.
Removal of bedding at this point will require your
puppy to really try to remain clean in between
scheduled potty breaks.

89.Avoid tethering your puppy outside. Natural
instincts will tell the puppy not to
soil an area they spend extended amounts of time
in.This may cause the puppy not to eliminate outside
or start eliminating inside the crate.

90.Not all puppies give obvious signals
when they need to eliminate, but they do
give signs. Watch your puppy carefully and note
some of the more common signals: waking up,
sudden sniffing, circling, moving to a remote area,
or just a puzzled look. Act quickly to get your puppy
to the elimination area as quickly as possible.

91.When activity level changes, your puppy
could have an accident. This applies to
sleeping and waking, playing then stopping, after
a car ride, after a meal, etc.

92.Your puppy’s accidents will catch him as
much by surprise as they do you! Your
puppy can be playing, drinking, walking, or chewing
a bone and may just spontaneously urinate.
This is completely without intent and is certainly
not “out of spite.” Her bladder simply became full
and her body released it. Until her body development
catches up, this is quite common.

[Happy Pet Cebu]

IN EQUALS OUT!

What goes in must come out, and this applies to
both treats and water. Limit treat volume. Frequent
treats are okay, but offer small bits instead
of big bones. Watch the water intake as well. The
rule of thumb is to make sure your puppy has
plenty of water to clean his system. But offer the
water in small parcels, relevant to your dog’s size.
This will keep a good flow of water moving
through his system, but in predictable time periods
so you can structure his “output” and keep
accidents to a minimum.

93.Quality food is highly digestible. What
this means to the housebreaking
process is the more readily digestible the food, the
less the puppy must eliminate. A bargain foodstore
brand has plenty of fillers. For every one
hundred pounds of food your puppy eats, he may
eliminate fifty to sixty pounds in the yard! One
hundred pounds of a higher-quality pet-store
brand may only yield thirty-five to forty pounds in
the yard. The more frequently the puppy must
eliminate, the harder the housebreaking process.

94.The firmer the stool, the easier it is for
the puppy to “hold it.” If your puppy’s
stool is consistently soft, consider switching
foods. Check the protein source on the bag you are
currently feeding your puppy (e.g., chicken, beef,
lamb, or some other meat). Switch the protein
source and see if the stool changes. Always switch
foods slowly over at least a week interval to avoid
diarrhea.

95.Unless you are teaching your puppy to
eliminate inside the house (if you live in
a big city and have a small dog), it is best to use
paper and wee-wee pads only as an “accident
catcher.” It is not wise to encourage the puppy to
eliminate on the paper as a habit. Encouraging
paper elimination leads the puppy to understand
that, under the correct circumstances, it is okay to
eliminate in the house.

96.If your puppy is having trouble understanding
where to eliminate, place a
soiled paper or pad outside in the area reserved
for elimination. During the next scheduled bathroom
break, take the puppy out to the desired
area and show him the pad. Repeat your cue word
encouragingly and praise for success.

[Happy Pet Cebu]

PREVENTING FOOD AGGRESSION

97.Feeding your puppy in a quiet, peaceful
area will remove the chances of her
becoming stressed out and defensive about mealtimes.
Too much activity and commotion near her
feeding area may cause her to startle quickly,
ingest her food too quickly, or become protective.

98.If her litter was large, she may have had
a great deal of competition either for a
teat on the mother dog or for food in a bowl as she
was weaned onto dog food. This competition is
stressful and may have caused her to have to fight
to claim her food.

99.Sit quietly by your dog in a chair, holding
her leash. This gives not only direction
to your puppy, but also enhances her ability to
adapt to someone being near to her food bowl.
Remain motionless and do not disturb her while
she’s feeding. Don’t stare at her. Sometimes your
puppy may perceive that as a challenge.

100.After a week or two of sitting by her,
you can begin casually reaching
down and petting her gently while she’s eating.
Don’t distract her too much. Just touch her as the
next step in desensitizing her. Praise her gently
for allowing you to interact with her. At later feeding
sessions, reach into her food bowl and touch
her food. Again, praise her for not responding.

101.You may want to divide her meal
into two “servings.” When one “serving”
is finished, you can add the rest to her bowl
and let her finish the second “serving,” which is
really just the second half of the total meal. This
may help her to see that food isn’t scarce, her
needs will be met, and there will always be plenty
for her to eat.