PC wont start / power-up problem

[emie]

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duda ko motherboard... e admit nalang na kang boss ruel

[jintatsu]

mao jd na duda gani nko emie.. kai ang motherboard namn mo control sa supply.. ishort ang green og black sa supply if mo on ang supply ok ra imo supply..

[dubioz]

Bro, before you have your mobo tinkered with.....

This is NOT a new nor unique problem. This is already known as the "No Boot" problem with regard to the power supply and can be found in Intel's docs. There is in fact another thread in ISTORYA.NET about this and it was solved simply by changing the power supply.

It would be better if you use a new 500w power supply because the real problem is in the standby power and I'm not sure if old 500W power supplies have the right standby power. My recommendation is Antec (around 4k) if you can afford it, otherwise, settle for Dynamo (1.5k) na lang. Both have built in SATA power connectors.

However, I'm not discounting other possibilities, sipyat unya.

I even have an article in my blog about my own personal experience, and I'll quote it here for you:

THE "NO BOOT" PC
- Dubioz Don
February 8, 2006

More `puter stuff that everyone should know about. With the advent of the new motherboards that support the latest 64bit and dual core processors, POWER requirements have changed. This is one area where branded pc's beat the generic "bag of chips". Since most of us scrimp on our pc's, chances are that you have a computer assembled by someone you know rather than that nifty Hewlett-Packard on display. (Mac users: disregard the last sentence, you don't know what the heck us PC geeks are talking about).

Fiddling around with my daughter's spanking new PC that has one intake fan and two exhaust fans apart from the processor fan to cool that 3Ghz Intel monster, I was appalled to find it would not boot. Read that again: My daughter's brand new pc WOULD NOT BOOT!

Looking through the transparent casing, I could see a green light on. Not knowing what it was, I read the manual and found that it indicated the computer was on standby mode. Using that as a basis for browsing Intel's website docs, I found that the likely problem was that the power supply could not generate sufficient standby power (at least 8A). The see through casing once again revealed that a twenty pin power supply had been plugged in a twenty four pin connector.

I asked my provider to change the power supply to which they retorted, ALL OUR POWER SUPPLIES are like that. Well, anticipating a lawsuit, I consulted with another provider and was informed that while I was correct with my analysis, my provider could not be faulted because practically ALL computer casings as of December 2005 had the wrong power supply for the new motherboards. "What we let our customers do," the nice gentleman said, "is pay an upgrade price for the proper power supply."

So I called my provider again and told them to contact me when they had the new 24 pin power supplies and as soon as they had one, I was more than glad to pay the upgrade price.

Why do I write this? Because, if you have purchased a generic "bag of chips" pc around december of 2005 to January of 2006, it is very likely YOU DO NOT HAVE THE CORRECT POWER SUPPLY. To determine if you have the right kind, perform the following test:

1. Turn off your PC. DO NOT TURN OFF THE UPS or AVR.

2. If you have an Intel motherboard or any other motherboard with one check if the standby indicator is on (located somewhere in the middle of the board).

3. Leave your computer on standby for up to 4 hours.

4. Try turning on your PC, if it does not boot, well you've got the wrong power supply. You know what to do.

There doesn't seem to be any report about branded PC's suffering from this problem. Can you imagine how much I wanted to hit myself on the head when a good friend of mine told me he could have IMPORTED a branded PC for me for the same price I bought my daughter's system?

[[DSX]]

that's kind mata-mata way to check for PSU compatibility. A safer way would be to check for the motherboard model and verify that the PSU has an equal or higher ATX specification, meets power requirements not only on wattage but also on amperage. While some mobo REQUIRE the use of a 24-pin PSU it doesnt mean that ALL 24-pin mobos wouldn't run on a 20-pin PSU. Some mobo are backward compatible. Case in point: GA-965P-DS3 LGA775 mobo accepts both 24 and 20 pin PSU's and is also documented on the manual. Since acronis said that the old PSU is 300w..it apparently is a regular "day to day" PC and thus it probably would not even need PSU beyond 350watts.

acronis's problem could probably be the motherboard itself. you might also wanna check the HDD, shorted HDD's cause this kind of problems.

[dubioz]

Correct! But for most laymen, we have no choice but to purchase the newer supplies to ensure compatibility. Sad thing is, the generic ps'es do not have all their specs made available. So mata-mata jud ta unless we go for the expensive kind na kumpleto ug specs. The purpose of recommending 24 pins is to ensure for the layman that he is getting a relatively new power supply, cuz it's very likely that it is an old PS if it does not have the 24 pin connector. My d915 is backward compatible but I went for a 24 pin to ensure it complies with the newer standards.

I doubt if a 300W ps could run a new motherboard properly even if it's just a day to day pc. It's not the purpose, like you said, it's compatibility. Intel has documented this as a problem with the power supply's standby current (at least 8A) so it has nothing to do with the computer's use. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there's any locally available 300W ps that can supply that kind of standby current. (Again, if you can even find a generic ps that will properly label and tell you its standby amperage, mata mata na lang jud).

Besides, there was another thread in ISTORYA.NET about this same problem that was already solved with a simple change of PSU. Lowest cost to acronis would be to change the power supply before the motherboard.

The system builders here need to do something about this. This is an all too common problem. They should be the ones to know about the PSU issues, particularly ATX specs, and not the purchaser. All the purchaser can expect is that he gets a PC that works out of the box. But when I demanded that my ps be changed, akong builder mismo DID NOT KNOW.

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that's kind mata-mata way to check for PSU compatibility. A safer way would be to check for the motherboard model and verify that the PSU has an equal or higher ATX specification, meets power requirements not only on wattage but also on amperage.

[madmax24]

admit nlng na dri sa greenvalley para ma trace unsa jd ang prob kay lisod kng mag tag-an ta sa prob mka gasto na hinoon ka ug dako :mrgreen: