Arowana hobbyist - Comprehensive CareGuide

[teabag]

---

mga 7inch pa akong aro..naa ba kaha nag baligya dri cebu na gagmay na frogs..sa manila naa unta pero lisod man mag padala na gamay lng paliton..ug wala dri cebu..kung kinsa gusto pwd cguro ta maka group buy..

[PAIN]

im not sure if cgi pani cya baligya ug frog.
contact Arrowana, tag 10 each iya baligya.

[teabag]

im not sure if cgi pani cya baligya ug frog.
contact Arrowana, tag 10 each iya baligya.

na contact na nako cya last night, wala na pud..cge lang bro naa man sad cricket ug superworms

[Redman]

hi boss

kita ko sa price ranges sa 1st page

just wana ask on the current price range ron sa green ug jardini bsag juvie's pa

TY daan

[PAIN]

Redman, wala kayo nag bago, gamay ra deperencya.
depende na sa shop, ug diskarte sa hinangyoay.

[Redman]

Redman, wala kayo nag bago, gamay ra deperencya.
depende na sa shop, ug diskarte sa hinangyoay.

hahah , diskarte ug hangyo jud tbuod ka boss pain...

TY sa reply

[boang3000]

hello hello! master pain naa ta ko ask sa akong aro kay murag nbntayan nko kanang sa may ikog sa aro gai kay murag naay puwa2 jd T_T ngnu na xa? nia ang scale sa may ikogan na tang2 murag napanit ba. ahaka oy.

[PAIN]

tail biting na, for more info pls read below:

PART 4: Illness / Treatments and Health

Pag prevent sa stress is crucial to preventing illness sa Aros. There are no guarantees that treatment will cure your fish! As the saying goes, Preventive is better then cure!

Ammonia: is produce in the tank by fish excrement and decaying organic mater sma sa excess food or food waste. Ammonia is highly irritating to fish, prolonged exposure can cause gill damage and respiratory stress, as well as skin, fin, eye and intestinal damage. With chronic exposure, kidney damage may occur, and growth may be stunted.

Symptoms: Flashing and rubbing against solid objects; erratic swimming; Bloody patches on the body (lisud e determen if Red Aro); elevated mucus production; gasping or respiration difficulties and sudden death. Continuation

Nitrite: is a toxic to fish as ammonia. Pag sugod sa nitrite level mo follow dayun ang ammonia, since ammonia is converted to nitrite during biological filtration. The addition of new fish and overfeeding are common source of both ammonia and nitrite level incress. Nitrite prevent fish’s red blood cells from transporting oxygen. Grabe xposure can cause fish blood to turn from red to brown, and you can see it in the gills.

Symptoms: Permi naas taas sa tank (gasping), or near water inflow or aeration source; paspas ang gill movement. Fish can die of suffocations due to nitrite toxicity.

Nitrate: (lahi na cya ha sa Nitrite) is the final product of the nitrogen cycle in the tank and is formed when nitrite is oxidized. It is less toxic to fish’s and can tolerate slowly elevating nitrate levels with little indication of stress. Chronic stress and overall ill health are common effect.

Symptoms: Gasping at the surface of the tank, incressed gill movement, clamped fins, loss of appetite, extreme lethargy and delayed wound healing.

pH: is the acidity or baseness of the water: the maximum acidity is measured as 1 and the maximum baseline is 14. A pH increase of 1 point therefore means the water is 10 times more alkaline. Aros are least stressed when the pH in their tank is stable at approximately 7 (neutral). A pH of between 6.5 to 7 is best for Aro, a high pH tends to increase the toxicity of other substance such as ammonia in addition to causing fish discomfort. A low pH level is also very hard for fish to tolerate and may also interfere with the health of the bacteria essential to bio filtration. Aros force to live in inappropriate pH condition may adapt and survive, But their coloration may suffer and Breading will likely be unsuccessful.

Symptoms: Fish suffering from fluctuating pH distress may exhibit excess mucous production, inflamed or red skin and fins, bleeding and deteriorating gills. Excessive darting and jumping or erratic swimming is also common. Aros cannot survive in highly acidic or alkaline water.

Fish Nutrition:
Dragon Fish requires protein, carbohydrates, fat (lipids), vitamins and minerals to stay healthy.
Protein: at least 45% of Aros diets should be protein based. It quickly metabolizes during swimming and is also used in growth as well as repair of cells and tissue. It is essential for egg production and growth of young Aros as well.
Carbohydrates: for adult Aro, approximately 30 -40% in the diet is acceptable and are significant source of energy for adult.
Fat: Should be fed approximately 6-8% in their diets and it is also important for red, orange, yellow and green coloration in fish.

Medicine:


It is a good idea to have some medication and items likely to be used in quarantine treatment ready on hand (pra dili mag karag-karag pag palit) Optional.

• Water quality test kits
• Aquarium salt
• Malachite green and formalin
• Methylene blue
• Tetracycline, erythromycin, nitrofurans (or lain n antibiotics)
• Copper medication
• Amquel (or lain ammonia neutralizer)
• Q-tips
• Tweezers
• Mercurochrome
• Chlorine bleach for disinfection
• Varieties of food including antibiotic food
• Extra filter media ( carbon and zeolite)
• Water Conditioner
• Black water extract

Common Fresh water antibiotics: Tetracycline, Erythromycin, Nitrofurans and Quinolones.
Antiparasitic Medication: Malachite green and formalin treatment, Copper and Quinine.
Antifungal Medication: Malachite green and formalin treatment, Copper and Methylene blue

Ok most of the medicine mentioned is not familiar sa ato, the best thing to do if you think your Aro is ill, is to go straight to your aquarium shop (mas mayo if naay namaligya exclusively for Aro na shop, it would be an excellent choice) and then tell them what you have observed about your sick fish and they should be able to provide you with the right medicine. If possible, pichure asa dpi tang problem (if visible) and show them.



Symptoms of Stress:

• Loss of Appetite
• Gasping at the surface
• Scratching against tank items
• Excessive stillness and inactivity
• Darting
• Excessive Jumping
• Clamped Fins
• Shimmying (fluttering movement in place)
• Erratic Swimming
• Excessive Mucous

At this first sign of stress, perform water test, a partial water change and filter maintenance as needed to correct water quality deficiencies. During this time, look closely for additional symptoms of disease such as:

• Bloating
• Spots
• Lesions
• White or Red Patches
• Gill discoloration or Inflammation
• Eye Cloudiness
• Fin or Tail deterioration
• Growths
• Raised Scales
• Visible parasites

Common Fish Illness and Diseases:
Symptoms: bag-ong isda namatay, no signs of illness
Likely causes: New Tank Syndrome or Improper acclimation
Treatment: please see above statement (acclimatizing).

Symptoms: Loss of appetite
Likely causes: Stress, illness and improper acclimation
Treatment: Offer live foods, test water and inspect for any manifestations of disease.

Symptoms: Small white Spots on head, body and fins
Likely causes: White Spot (ichthyophthirius)
Treatment: Malachite green and formalin or copper medication / salt

Symptoms: Cotton wool effect on the body
Likely causes: Fungus, Columnarius (mouth fungus)
Treatment: Anti fungal medication / salt bath (yaw kiskise ha).

Symptoms: Fraying of the soft tissue (fin membrane)
Likely causes: Fin Rot
Treatment: Anti bacterial medication / salt bath; treat aggressively

Symptoms: Appearance of a whitish film over the eye of the fish
Likely causes: Poor water quality, poisoning (chlorine) Cloudy eye or Eye fluke
Treatment: Water change and filtration, condition tank and use antibacterial medication.

Symptoms: Gasping at the bottom of the tank; Red streaks around gills
Likely causes: Oxygen starvation or Gill disease
Treatment: Reduce fish population, air pumps and filters check and antiparasitic med.

Symptoms: Visible worms from the gills, fish are gasping
Likely causes: Gill Worm (dactylogyrus)
Treatment: use antiparasitic drug as directed.

Symptoms: Reddening of the skin or Red streaks in the Fin
Likely causes: Virus, Bacterial infection, Ulcers
Treatment: Use antibacterial medication, a prolonged salt bath (several days) will allevate osmoregulatory stress in the case of severe ulceration.
Symptoms: Scales seem to be raised; fish are bloated.
Likely causes: Dropsy
Treatment: Water test / change, Tetracycline can be use, but not always effective.

Symptoms: Small worm like parasites attached to fish, scrapping against rocks or tank.
Likely causes: Anchor worm or other parasites
Treatment: Antiparasitic medication.

Symptoms: Dull color / mucus visible; detached skin; fraying of the skin.
Likely causes: Slime disease, poor water condition, stress or flukes.
Treatment: Water test / change; use antiparasitic medication as directed.


Common Dragon Fish Ailments:
Cloudy Eye:
This is often seen in Aro, and is generally the result of unclean water or an injury. One or both of the eyes cloud over, and may become covered with blue and white particles. This is serious illness that can result in blindness ug pede ika matay if untreated.
Treatment:
Perform a 30% water change and filter maintenance. Add salt in the ratio os 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Raise temperature to 30 to 33 C. if naay improvement, continue the process at least twice per week until it’s cured.

Droopy Eye or Droop-eye syndrome:
This is cause by the build up fatty tissue behind the Aros eye, which forces it down. The causes are debatable, but may include: ever-feeding a fatty diet; Failure to focus the fish attention at the top of the tank by keeping bottom dwelling tankmates only; failure to use gravel, which may to much interest in the tanks reflection bottom (sigi tanaw sa ubos); and finally, a limited, corrupt genetic pool due to captive breeding.
Treatment:
This is a cosmetic defect, and can be left untreated without danger to your Dragon fish.
Put some gravel at the bottom to prevent them looking at its own reflection below. Feed them with variety of foods, so that it does not only eat fatty food. Try to drop the food 1 at the time that they can see it at the surface.

Tilted Gills:
This disorder is cause by Overcrowding, too little space, contaminated water and inappropriate temperature. Gills eventually curve upward (open), It will gasp for air at the tanks surface and suffer a loss of appetite. Once the fish internal gills are damaged, bacteria may infect them, making breathing even more difficult, death can result.
Treatment:
At the 1st sign of breathing difficulty, begin performing 20% water change every 2 to 3 days. Increase the supply of oxygen to the tank or adding additional pump and aeration device. Once the gill cover is hardened and tilled up, the only treatment is removal of the head (este) hardened edge diay of the gill via surgery.

Protruding Scale Disease (Dropsy):
Most common cause by poor water conditions, extreme water temperature change or a sudden change in pH. The fish scales begin to tilt outwards or protrude. Ksagaran ma bantayan when the fish turns or viewed from above. This desease is fatal if left untreated.
Treatment:
Raise water temperature to 34 C, and a salt at ratio of one teaspoon for each gallon. Do a 25% change every two days and begin treating the fish with tetracycline per package instruction. Ayaw sag pa kan-a ang isda and continue lang ang treatment until scaled flatten.

Tail Biting Syndrome:
Bacteria cause this infection, poor water quality, feeders or new tankmates can be culprit. The bacteria cause the fish to itch, and it begins to bite its own tail to alleviate its discomfort and cause injures which can be infected.
Treatment:
Perform 20% water change, change all filter medium, and add salt (one teaspoon per gallon of water) and increase tank temperature to 34 C. Turn off the tank light and begin treatment with a commercial antibiotic designated to cure fin and tail rot.

Fin Rot:
A Bacterial infection on the fins, and most likely due to poor water quality, low water temperature or introduction via food or tankmates. The edge of the fin turn pale and begin to disintegrate (murag nadugmok).
Treatment:
Paki basa nlang sa taas na treatment. Nyahahaha (nag tinapulan nsad ^^)

Bulging and Swollen Anus:
A condition that affects Aros as a result of intestinal injuries due to eating sharp edged foods. The fish anus becomes Red and begins to protrude. Eventually the fish will stop eating, its swim bladder will lose function, and the fish will no longer be able to hold balance and swim (fatal).
Treatment:
Stop feeding the fish, raise the water temperature to 34 C and add salt at a ratio of one teaspoon per gallon. 25% Water change every 2 days, and treat with antibiotic per directions. Resume feeding non-sharp and soft food once symptoms begin to subside.

White Spot:
Wait, I’ve already discus this at the upper page, please read this part at “common fish illness” section. Hehehe (kala nyo ha).

Thank you for reading ^^ Enjoy!
PAIN

[boang3000]

tsalamat master pain

[boang3000]

dli d i Tail Biting Syndrome ang sakit ako aro(7") kay ginabuhat nmn ko ni (Perform 20% water change, change all filter medium, and add salt (one teaspoon per gallon of water) and increase tank temperature to 34 C. Turn off the tank light and begin treatment with a commercial antibiotic designated to cure fin and tail rot.) katong ni layat ako aro.

geh bunog d i xa sa knife(albino 7-8") cge rakog observe nia e bully xa prmi. ang anal fin gd sa akong aro napahak nia naay samad duol sa caudal fin ba 2ngd sa bunog. pro ako nang ilahi ang knife na nko akong ibaligya or trade. mbalik pana ang iyang anal fin og ang iyang skin?? unsay cure ana? T__T