Volkswagen Club sa Sugbo

[tagiptipon]

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mga pila kaha gasto pa taud aircon boss?. 1.5 guro ni akong makina or 1.6

try lang read sa previous pages boss. i read it na around 30k daw. peru mas ok ra sington kaysa mabun-og ang makina boss. hehe!

[nijuuichi]

Hi sa tanan VW lover's.. Kon walay kayo kay sige ra redondo di gyud mulahus unsaOn gani to, timing? Cant find tutorial sa Utube man gud, newbie here. TIA

[spriggan]

Hi VW Lovers club! im planning on buying unta ug pagong, kay ganahan jd kaau ko ani na car sauna pa.. mu ask lng ta ku if daghan ba parts available para sa pagong in case nga maguba? thnx

[tagiptipon]

Hi VW Lovers club! im planning on buying unta ug pagong, kay ganahan jd kaau ko ani na car sauna pa.. mu ask lng ta ku if daghan ba parts available para sa pagong in case nga maguba? thnx

Hi boss. way blema sa mga pyesa boss locally, if wala dri cebu naa sa manila.

[chocolate_mouse]

Hello Volkswagen Club!
Ask lang unta ko if naa ba anyone ninyo diri or naa moy kaila nga naay yellow na bao, new model, nga naay aircon nga pwede ma rent as a bridal car.

Dream gud jud sa akong sister na bao iyang wedding car.

Thank you.

[baby_jenie]

naa ba mga parts ang vw kombi diri cebu?

[hosua]

naa ba mga parts ang vw kombi diri cebu?

> naa sa Leo's, luyo sa colonade... kombi ang sakyanan sa tag-iya...

[tagiptipon]

Hello Volkswagen Club!
Ask lang unta ko if naa ba anyone ninyo diri or naa moy kaila nga naay yellow na bao, new model, nga naay aircon nga pwede ma rent as a bridal car.

Dream gud jud sa akong sister na bao iyang wedding car.

Thank you.

Naa untay limo nga vw ma'am. Basin interested mo.

[vw_rider80]

Hi sa tanan VW lover's.. Kon walay kayo kay sige ra redondo di gyud mulahus unsaOn gani to, timing? Cant find tutorial sa Utube man gud, newbie here. TIA

The Engine Rotates But Will Not Start.


This condition may be the result of either no fuel or no spark -- or both. A rotating engine that will not start is mostly likely not receiving fuel and or spark at the point of ignition -- in the cylinders. Possible causes of this are --


No Fuel At the Point of Ignition -


The fuel tank may be empty.


Fuel may not be reaching the carburetor -


Faulty fuel pump. Perform the "Poor Man’s Fuel Pump Test".


Clogged fuel filter. See our Fuel Filter Service Procedure.


Kinked or blocked sections of rubber fuel line.


Rust in the tank blocking the outlet.


Sticking float needle valve in the carburetor. See discussion of Our Experience with this subject.


No Spark At the Point of Ignition -

Note: More detail regarding testing for spark is given at Electrical Troubleshooting.


The spark plugs may be worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped.


The ignition points may be gapped incorrectly.


The timing may be incorrect.


The coil may be faulty.


The ignition wiring may be faulty.

Following are a few quick checks to fault-find the electrical system and find the cause of no spark at the point of ignition. First some system description -


There should be a thickish red wire from the generator (D+ terminal) to the rear side of the voltage regulator under the rear seat (also the D+ terminal).


There should be a similar thick red wire running from the battery to the front of the voltage regulator (B+) terminal. That's the wire that supplies power to the car. Another red wire is joined to this one (on the front of the regulator) and runs forward to the light switch (which is used by VW as a junction box). Have a look at the light switch from inside the luggage area - the red wire from the voltage regulator comes in from the left side of the car. It then splits into two red wires on the light switch, one runs directly to the fuse panel (for "ignition off" power for interior light, etc.) and another runs to the steering column, then back up to the fuse panel (for "ignition on" power).

Some simple tests to see where you have power -

Note: A very useful tool here is a 12-volt test globe. This is just a 12-volt bulb in a 18" long (or so) wire with an alligator clip on end and any kind of a metal attachment -- a pointy thing -- on the other. It doubles as both a static timer and a 12-volt tester. The tool is available commercially or you can make your own. It's a tool you will use often.


Turn on the ignition but do not start the car.


With a volt meter (or the 12-volt tester described above) test between the positive (+) post on the battery and ground (body of the car). A positive test here verifies that the battery strap has a good connection with the body.


Now test between the joined red wire at the front of the regulator and ground (the body). If you do not have power at this point, check the battery terminal and red lead attached to that.


Now that you know you have power at the voltage regulator, go to the luggage compartment and test between the OTHER end of the red wire on the light switch (the one from the left side of the car), and ground.


Now test between the other two red leads on the switch, and ground. If you have power all the way up to this point, you should be able to turn on lights, horn, interior light, brake lights, etc. provided the fuses are OK.


Now you need to make sure you have 12 volts to the ignition system, so grab your tester and perform the following tests -


With the ignition switched on, connect connect the clip on the tester to any convenient engine case component or the tinware and touch the tip of the tester on the black wire terminal on the coil. The bulb in the tester should be glowing. If so, the coil is getting power like it should. If not, you'll have to find out why not before you can go any further.

Note: Black wires in VW-speak means "has power with the ignition switch on").


If you have power to the coil, then check that the points open as you rotate the crankshaft (by hand -- with a 19mm wrench (spanner) on the generator nut). If the points don't open you'll never get a spark (it's the points opening which creates the voltage spike through the coil to produce the spark.)


If the points are opening, then the next test is to pull the heavy wire that goes from the coil to the center of the distributor off of the distributor, leaving the other end on the coil. Grasp the the wire with with insulated pliers (an 18000 volt shock is no fun!) and point the loose end close to the engine case or other handy bare metal around the engine. Now get someone to crank the engine using the key - you should see a series of sparks jump the gap between the end of the wire and the ground. If you see good, hot, bright sparks, then the coil is good; if not, you'll have to replace the coil.


Now check the plug wires. Reconnect the center wire into the distributor and pull each plug wire off the plug in turn and try the spark test as above. You'll get fewer sparks (one forth as many for each cylinder compared to the distributor center wire) but should still get them. You can use a spare spark plug for this test if you like -- rest the outer side on the engine metal and connect the plug wire to the top of the plug.


If you have sparks at the plugs, then you know you have no problem there. If you have sparks from the coil, and if the points are operating properly, then either the plugs or the plug wires that are at fault.


If you have fuel at the point of ignition (as determined above), power to the coil, to the distributor, through the points and through the wires to the spark plugs, and if the plugs are firing as they should, the engine should be ready to start.


Run the Tune-Up Procedures to further track down the problem.



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[charlesvince]

mga bro kinsa naa kaila na naay baligya dha na volk barato lang kayako kalingawan sa amo.a patabang ko ninya bro txt\\me lang 1200 lang 09331356459